1. Newest Posts About Swiss Watches

  2. Certina DS Action Diver: One of the Best Diver Watches?

    Certina DS Action Diver: One of the Best Diver Watches?

    Certina is a Swiss luxury watchmaking brand that many enthusiasts and collectors would acknowledge as underrated. The brand has a rich history of being at the forefront of waterproof innovations, and a prime model that exemplifies this is the Certina DS Action Diver. The DS Action Diver is an elegant timepiece from the Certina Aqua collection. It showcases a stylish design, tried-and-tested timekeeping accuracy, and certified water resistance. While classified as a luxury diver watch, the DS Action Diver is one of the brand’s more accessible references. Despite its affordability, the DS Action Diver maintains the quality seen in all Certina watches and sticks true to the brand’s traditional watchmaking values. Today, we will take a better look at the Certina DS Action Diver, its specifications, and its price. In addition to that, we will also view some alternative wristwatches from different brands and see if the DS Action Diver is truly worth the investment. Specifications Watch Dimensions Certina has released several variations of the DS Action Diver. For this review, we will be focusing on the Certina DS Action Diver Ref. C032.407.11.051.00.  This Certina DS Action Diver has a case diameter of 43mm and a case height of 13.1mm, making this a rather oversized watch. It has a non-standard lug width of 21mm, so finding a matching after-market strap might take some effort. Although this watch weighs around 180 grams with its bracelet, it is well-balanced and surprisingly not as top-heavy as it looks. On the whole, the DS Action Diver is quite a substantial watch and will look large on smaller wrists. If you have a thicker wrist or you are not bothered by its heft, then this Certina watch is well worth your time and budget. 316L Stainless Steel Case, Bezel, and Case Back Image By: Certina 316L stainless steel continues to be the ideal material for watch cases due to its ruggedness, corrosion resistance, and unmistakable luster. The case of the Certina DS Action Diver mainly consists of brushed steel. Taking a closer look at the sides of the case, you will notice that Certina has brushed the steel vertically. This is a little uncommon compared to the usual way other watchmakers brush their watches and gives the Certina DS Action Diver a slightly different shine. Other components of this Certina timepiece, such as the bezel and the rear case, utilize polished steel instead.  Located on the right of the steel case is a large crown with crown guards. Engraved on its center are the letters “DS,” which stands for the “Double Security” concept that the Certina DS Action Diver is crafted with. The crown of the watch is screwed-down, creating a secure vacuum seal that prevents water from entering the watch. With its considerable size and patterned grooves, the crown provides an easy grip so wearers and divers can use it with relative ease. Inserted on top of the case is a unidirectional rotating bezel made of aluminum and polished stainless steel. The bezel has a full 60-click rotation and no back play whatsoever. This bezel also comes with patterned grooves around its rim for a more secure grip. That said, the bezel is quite small. So, once your palms get sweaty, getting a proper hold of the bezel might be a little tricky. Such a design might be a problem for divers who plan to bring this watch to their expeditions. Aside from that, the bezel also has a black surface that contrasts with legible silver indices. At the tip of the bezel is an inverted silver triangle with a luminous pearl at the centre. This provides wearers with a source of brightness so they can read the elapsed time scale more easily. Moving on to the rear of the watch, the Certina DS Action Diver uses a solid steel caseback that bears the iconic DS turtle logo. Certina engraves the turtle there as a reminder of the brand’s long-term affiliation with the Florida Sea Turtle Conservancy. The rear case also bears bits of information regarding the watch and its specifications.   Anti-Reflective Sapphire Crystal As always, sapphire glass is the material of choice for luxury watchmakers due to its unparalleled scratch resistance. The sapphire crystal that Certina uses is flat and treated with an anti-reflective coating from top to bottom. This makes it very legible, and you will not have to worry about light glares or reflections no matter what angle you view it from. Black Dial The dial of the Certina DS Action Diver has a classic layout, with a jet-black face and lume-applied geometric hour markers and hands. The hour markers take the form of luminescent shapes that neatly contrast the black dial. Additionally, the 3 o’clock marker is smaller, to make room for the date window. The handset of the DS Action Diver consists of a sword-like minute hand, an arrow-shaped hour hand, and a red Breguet second hand that adds a splash of vibrant colour to the dial. Each hand possesses decent girth and length, which allows the watch to be easily read with a simple glance. In the dark, the hour markers, hands, and bezel pip start to radiate with different shades of Super-LumiNova coating. The pip itself emits a green color, while the hands and markers have a blue luminescence. While it is not anything drastic, the different hues of the Super-LumiNova coatings add some fun to the watch, as opposed to the usual monochrome luminescence you see in most watches. Powermatic 80.111 Image By: Certina Underneath the surface of the Certina DS Action Diver is the brand’s Powermatic 80.111 movement. The Powermatic 80.111 is an automatic caliber that Certina modified from an ETA.2824 caliber. What makes this movement stand out is its 80-hour power reserve. For Certina to achieve this, they added a customized kinetic chain and reduced the beat frequency of the ETA movement from 28,800 beats per hour to 21,600 vph. As a result, the caliber uses less energy, which also cuts down on excess wear and tear. This modified caliber produces only six beats per second, instead of the eight beats per second produced by the standard ETA.2824 movement. However, this is not a very noticeable difference, and the improved power reserve is an excellent trade-off. 316L Stainless Steel Bracelet Image By: Certina As with the case, Certina uses 316L stainless steel to forge the bracelet of the DS Action Diver. This bracelet consists of solid polished links and half-links that have the same sheen as the rest of the watch. Its buckle features a deployment clasp with double pushers to release. A set of smaller pushers are also present to give the bracelet a diver extension. This provides around 15mm of leeway for micro-adjustments, which is convenient for divers who want to wear the watch over a wetsuit.  If you are not fond of the stainless steel bracelet, a matching rubber strap is also offered for this Certina DS Action Diver. 300m Water Resistance Certina places a lot of importance on being ISO-certified, which is not surprising. Before obtaining certification, the model must go through rigorous testing. The criteria involve resistance to water pressures, condensation, shock, temperature, and overpressure. Once your watch matches the international standard for diver watches and is ISO-certified, people will begin to see your dive piece as remarkable and trustworthy.  The Certina DS Action Diver is an ISO-certified timepiece that can withstand up to 300m of water pressure. That means that the DS Action Diver can participate in all sorts of water-related activities. From taking a shower to scuba diving, this Certina timepiece can handle it all. In fact, the 300m water resistance rating even allows the user to bring the watch to the dark depths of professional or saturation diving. Approximate Price The Certina DS Action Diver retails at approximately $865 USD. Compared to other dive watches of its caliber, the DS Action Diver is highly affordable. You will definitely get your money’s worth with this diver timepiece. A pre-owned model can cost as low as $550 USD, which is around the same price as a brand-new Seiko Prospex Samurai.  What is Double Security? Image By: Certina Double Security, or DS, is a concept Certina created that provides several protective procedures and enhancements for their watches. It ensures that the timepiece is reliable, durable, and efficient at work. Double Security usually improves upon certain aspects of the wristwatch, such as anti-magnetism, water resistance, longevity, and robustness. Over the years, Certina has continuously adapted its DS concept to reflect the brand’s high standards in watchmaking. Through arduous research and rigorous testing, the DS concept continues to produce Certina wristwatches with top-of-the-line quality. Alternatives Still not convinced that the DS Action Diver is the watch for you? No need to worry. Just like the fish in the sea, there are plenty more watches out there for you to try. Here are some highly competitive alternatives to the Certina DS Action Diver. Seiko Prospex Automatic Divers Watch (SRPE93K)  Seiko is a watchmaker that seems to have an answer to everything. As such, they also possess an excellent, budget-friendly alternative to the Certina DS Action Diver. Feast your eyes on the Seiko Prospex Automatic Divers Watch Ref. SRPE93K. While this tonneau-cased timepiece has a look similar to the DS Action Diver, it also has a set of exclusive qualities that make it stand out.  This Seiko Prospex timepiece fetches an approximate price of $530 USD. It comes in a 44mm stainless steel case, making it a millimeter bulkier than the Certina DS Action Diver. As a more affordable alternative that is cheaper by more than $300 USD, the Ref. SRPE93K has some features that are not as first-rate as the DS Action Diver. For instance, Seiko uses their patented Hardlex crystal to shelter the dial. Although Hardlex offers decent protection, it is not as scratch-resistant as sapphire glass. Seiko equips the Ref. SRPE93K with their 4R36 caliber. This is a self-winding movement with manual hacking capabilities. While that in itself is neat, the caliber can only last up to 41 hours, nearly half of what the Certina’s Powermatic 80 is capable of. Additionally, this Seiko Prospex has a water resistance of 200m. It is still pretty substantial but is lower than the DS Action Diver’s 300m water resistance rating. One thing the Prospex excels in is lume quality. As many of us know, Seiko watches are known for their exceptional glow in the dark. With their eco-friendly LumiBrite technology, the Ref. SRPE93K has fantastic luminescence and is slightly brighter than the Certina DS Action Diver. In terms of style, the DS Action Diver has more ample spacing between each component compared to this Seiko Prospex watch. The hints of red, smaller hour markers and slimmer hands make the DS Action Diver appear more refined. Of course, preference is king, and it will always be the deciding factor. What makes the Seiko Prospex Automatic Divers Watch Ref. SRPE93K something to consider is its balance between quality and price. It offers great specs for an affordable price of just $530 USD, which is much cheaper than the Certina DS Action Diver. And like many other gorgeous timepieces, the Ref. SRPE93K is not just a divers watch, as you can bring it to chic events or on your daily routines. Truthfully, it would be quite a task to find a $500 USD watch that offers as much as this Seiko Prospex Automatic Divers Watch does. Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto (H82335131) Hamilton is another brand associated with top-notch quality and affordable prices. For this reason, we chose the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto as the second alternative to the Certina DS Action Diver. This Hamilton watch comes in a 40mm stainless steel case. At first glance, you will notice the Khaki Navy Scuba’s lovely black dial with white indices, hour markers, minute and hour hands, and a splash of red on its second hand. Aside from the largely monochrome color scheme, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto also has other similarities with the Certina Diver. First of all, the Hamilton Khaki Navy is powered by a Hamilton H10 automatic movement. It features a power reserve that can last up to 80 hours — the same amount of time as Certina’s Powermatic 80. The Khaki Navy Scuba utilizes high-quality sapphire glass to protect its dial. Like Certina, Hamilton also wants to best protection possible for its dark and alluring watch face. In addition, the sapphire crystal used by Hamilton is anti-reflective as well. Like the Certina DS Action Diver, the Khaki Navy Scuba also comes with a round stainless steel case and a screw-down crown. These are is crucial in ensuring the security and waterproofness of the watch. That said, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba is only water-resistant up to depths of 100m. Although this allows you to take the watch for a good swim, it is considerably less than the Certina DS Action Diver’s 300m. Even comparing this Hamilton watch with the Seiko Ref. SRPE93K, its water resistance rating is 100m less. If having excellent water resistance is not a high priority for you, then this Hamilton watch is definitely worth checking out. Even with its lesser water resistance capabilities, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba still stands out as a highly competent and sleek timepiece. Final Thoughts All in all, the Certina DS Action Diver watch is an incredible piece. It showcases the attention to detail, sophistication, and craftsmanship that Certina provides with all its models. Moreover, it bears a classy and timeless look that also makes it an excellent dress watch. Realistically, you can use this Certina timepiece for all sorts of activities and events. It has a stellar design and a robust exterior that allows it to withstand anything that gets in its way.  To top things off, the Certina DS Action Diver comes at a relatively modest price point. Although excellent alternatives do exist, the DS Action Diver promises quality and reliability above all. It is a practical and affordable piece of luxury that you cannot find just anywhere. Looking for another kind of divers watch? Check out the Orient Mako II and see if it’s worthy of a spot in your collection. Featured Image By: Certina

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  4. Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar: A Complete Guide on Tissot’s Solar-Powered Tactile Watch

    Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar: A Complete Guide on Tissot’s Solar-Powered Tactile Watch

    Tissot has a long rich history in the world of horology. Throughout the years, Tissot has always made sure to get with the times and adjust whenever possible. One of the many achievements the brand has accomplished is the introduction of the T-Touch to the world. This was the world’s first tactile watch to come into existence. It is a high-utility watch that establishes a connection between usefulness and style. The T-Touch has since evolved over the years with newer, more up-to-date functions and designs. One particular standout model is the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar.  The Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00 is a solar-powered tactile watch that was the product of Tissot’s watchmaking expertise over the years. Not only were they the first brand to successfully create a tactile watch, but they were also one of the main proponents who jumpstarted the successful shift from traditional watchmaking to the modern era. That being said, what makes the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar such a prime choice for the average tech-savvy watch wearer? Is it a good choice for going on adventures? Or are its advanced features purely for cosmetics? Let us find out through a detailed walkthrough of the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar below. First Impressions Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.46.051.01Image courtesy of Watch Shopping At first glance, the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.46.051.01 might seem like a regular wristwatch that provides the most basic timekeeping features. Indeed, as mentioned before, it does share quite a few similarities with the Casio Pro-Trek, including having a digital-analog dial, and the fact that both watches are solar-powered and are intended for outdoor activities. In that respect, you might be put off by this design, since it might initially strike you as being a bit of a copy. A closer look, however, reveals some major differences between these two watches. One significant difference is that the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar comes with tactile functionality. Touchscreens are all the rage nowadays and are unlikely to go away anytime soon. That is why Tissot’s move of including tactile functionality in the T-Touch Expert Solar to get with the times was a very smart one. Having a head start in applying touchscreen technology to watchmaking was a massive advantage for Tissot. This caused an instant surge of popularity which led to this watch practically flying off the shelves. Indeed, the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar has proved to be extremely helpful and convenient in everyday life. With just a simple touch, you can do whatever you please with the T-Touch Expert Solar. The non-complicated mechanics made this watch very accessible. You will not have any problem recharging it or scrounging for batteries every once in a while. The major downside of this watch is its screen’s durability. Manufacturers have to make sure that the screen registers each touch successfully and accurately, or else the touchscreen will not function properly. As such, tactile glass screens are known to be quite fragile, and you have to be careful not to bang this watch around willy-nilly. Specifications The inner workings of the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar are not that difficult to understand. The smartwatch mechanisms and complications are easy to navigate due to their straightforward nature. Furthermore, the design of this watch has a distinct style that strengthens its purpose as an adventurer’s watch. Much like Casio Pro-Trek, the T-Touch Expert Solar boasts a minimalistic and uncluttered dial that shows only what is necessary to the wearer. The buttons on the left side of the watch help keep the touchscreen secure, to avoid accidental touches activating certain functions. Without further ado, let us get down to the specifics of this timepiece. Case The Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00 has a 45mm titanium case with a black PVD coating. This case might be too big for some people, especially those with more petite wrists, but the size was strategically built to accommodate the tactile glass screen. A smaller case would mean a smaller screen. And if the screen is smaller, the tactile functions of the T-Touch Expert Solar would become limited. Despite being a smartwatch, the durability of the case is impressive. It has a scratch-proof crystal, a water resistance rating of at least 100 meters, and has antimagnetic properties. The 13mm thickness of this watch adds more to its weight and structure. Despite that, the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00 is still a fairly comfortable watch to wear, especially with its 22mm lugs curved at an angle to fit around the wrist smoothly. The Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00 does not have any existing crowns. The same can be said for all the other T-Touch watches, both the older and newer versions. Instead, it has three distinct buttons that are used to adjust the time or to activate the tactile function. These three buttons can be easily distinguished with their corresponding logos. From top to bottom, the first button has a plus sign, the middle one has a letter T, for Tissot, and the third button showcases a minus sign. Both the first and third buttons are used to adjust the time on the digital dial, while the middle button is used to activate the tactile function. These buttons are extremely easy to understand and use, and their functions are very straightforward—making the watch easy to get used to, even for first-timers. Dial The Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00 uses a black checkered dial. The digital dial can be found at the bottom half of the main dial and works hand-in-hand with the analog dial on the upper half. The hours and minutes hands are quite short and tipped with white. That said, though the stocky hands of this watch are charmingly designed, their shorter-than-average lengths may not be to everyone’s taste. The hour and minute markers are presented in a straightforward manner, with numerals 3, 6, 9, and 12 placed on the bezel. There are also specific functions that can be found across the dial. These functions, which can be activated by tapping on their corresponding markers, include the Meteo mode, altimeter, chronograph, compass, timer, and alarm. The Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00 may be jam-packed with a lot of features, but the minimalistic design of the dial design ensures that it is still clean, uncluttered, and easy to read without getting confused. Movement Since the launch of the T-Touch collection, all the models in this range have used quartz movements. However, since the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00 uses solar energy as its main source of power, some changes had to be made to its movement. The ETA E84.301 Swiss solar tactile quartz movement was used to accommodate its solar capabilities along with the other amazing features this watch has. One handy feature this watch has is that, if you are unsure whether the battery has any power left, you can easily check the power indicator with just a single touch. The same can be said of the watch’s other functions. The ETA E84.301 caliber is an innovative, state-of-the-art solar quartz movement that puts Tissot one step ahead of its competition.  Strap The straps and bracelets for the T-Touch Expert Solar come in a variety of choices. Depending on the specific model, you can have either a synthetic rubber strap, an embossed cow leather band, or a titanium bracelet. In this case, the T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00 is equipped with a titanium bracelet that has a folding clasp with a secure push-button lock. It also goes without saying that the titanium bracelet adds to the heft of the watch—giving it an overall weight of 123 grams. This is still quite manageable and comfortable on the wrist, due to the lightweight nature of titanium. The professional titanium strap effectively adds to the classy design of the T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00. Some might not be fans of a metallic bracelet paired with a tactile watch, but this sleek and elegant exterior creates a unique identity that sets this timepiece apart from the other versions of the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar. It is a solid timepiece that is perfect for those who prefer a sturdy all-in-one watch fit for both everyday wear and dressy occasions. Price Now that we know all the features and functions of the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00, as you might expect, the price for this watch is quite expensive. Compared to Casio Pro-Trek, the T-Touch Expert Solar comes at a higher price that is quite reasonable for such a high-utility wristwatch. Indeed, it is also safe to say that in terms of utility, the T-Touch Expert Solar comes first when pitted against the Casio Pro-Trek. The T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00 comes at a price of $1,150 USD. It may not be the best price for beginners, or for those working with a budget, but it certainly befits a watch of this caliber. Alternatively, you could always opt for trusted and respected second-hand markets for more affordable pieces of the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar. Just be sure to check the legitimacy of your chosen seller. Newer Versions of the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Image courtesy of Watch Shopping At Baselworld 2017, an updated version of the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar was introduced, the T-Touch Expert Solar II. It is a new and improved variant of the T-Touch Expert Solar, with a much more defined and detailed dial compared to the first version. Instead of going for the minimalistic route again, Tissot decided to fill in the empty spaces to create a busier dial with additional features and functions. The hours and minutes hands of this timepiece are shaped like compass arrows, and the dial pattern is changed from checkered to a more sophisticated pattern. The size and dimensions remain the same and lightweight titanium is still used to make the case of the T-Touch Expert Solar II. The only difference is the bezel is now made from scratch-proof ceramic instead. The retail price for this watch starts at $1,150 USD. It has the same price as its predecessor, and it is commendable of Tissot to not have given this watch a higher price tag despite its improved functionalities. History of the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Once upon a time, Tissot was a brand known for exporting watches to the USA and the Russian Empire in the 19th century. As a result, when the Russian revolution occurred, it was a huge challenge for Tissot and its fellow watchmakers. While many other watchmaking brands were forced to close their workshops due to the revolution, Tissot, however, stood strong and used its expertise and resources to keep going, eventually creating a powerful factory. In 1999, Tissot released the first-ever tactile watch which they dubbed the T-Touch. This watch allowed the wearer to perform certain actions with just a single tap on the screen. It was such a groundbreaking invention that it placed Tissot at the top of the market during that time. Compared to other traditional watches, the T-Touch was an unconventional timepiece that took the world by storm. It was equipped with a quartz movement that ran on batteries since an automatic movement would not be sufficient for this energy-consuming watch. Touchscreen technology was not as prominent back then as it is today. The first touchscreen phone was invented in 1992, seven years before the T-Touch. It is unknown if Tissot drew inspiration from that feat, but it cannot be denied that the invention of the touchscreen phone opened a few doors regarding this technology, allowing it to be applied to the art of horology. As technology develops, the use of solar power as an alternative source of energy has become increasingly prevalent in the modern age. It is accessible, cost-effective, and gives wearers much less hassle. That is why Tissot chose to incorporate this solar technology into the T-Touch series, which eventually resulted in the creation of the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar, which was released in 2014. This timepiece became a massive success, particularly because of its solar capability. Outdoor enthusiasts found this watch to be useful due to its utility and accessibility. It does not have any overly complex features and there are no worries of accidentally tapping the screen and unintentionally activating some function. You need to push a certain button before being able to use its touchscreen features—making the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar a very secure timepiece in terms of accidental watch adjustments and the like.  Final Thoughts Going on an adventure surely takes a toll on every adventurer. Having the need to constantly prepare, be aware of both nightfall and dawn, and the worry of getting lost makes it a complex and arduous activity that not everyone can partake in. But with the emergence and assistance of adventurer utility watches like the Casio G-Shock Mudmaster, Garmin Fenix 6X Pro, the Rolex Explorer II, and of course, the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar, it has become possible for even beginners to enjoy nature and its beauty. The T-Touch Expert Solar Ref. T091.420.44.051.00 does exactly what Tissot intended it to do. Its tactile functionality provides more insight into the technological advancements Tissot has engaged in order to dominate the watch market once more. Of course, today, there have been other touchscreen timepieces by different brands, but one can never truly forget the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar, which stands out as the pioneer of multi-functional tactile watches in the history of horology. If you are the outgoing type, you’ll love our 10 Best Cycling Watches! Be sure to check it out! All images courtesy of Tissot, unless stated otherwise.Featured image courtesy of Tissot.

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  5. Tudor North Flag: A Guide to Classic Yet Underrated Chronograph

    Tudor North Flag: A Guide to Classic Yet Underrated Chronograph

    Although Tudor first became known as the sister company of the more prestigious watch brand Rolex, the company allowed this to be a reason not to establish its own reputable name in the watch industry. In fact, over the years, Tudor has developed into one of the most highly-coveted Swiss watchmakers with its luxurious and refined timepieces that are available at very reasonable prices. It offers a range of top-notch watches that cater to the needs of both men and women who wish to own a high-caliber timekeeper. Aside from that, Tudor is also known for many innovations in the world of horology, such as the creation of its own first-ever caliber movement, the Caliber MT5621, which you can find in the Tudor North Flag. This particular collection features many classic and cutting-edge timepieces, with the Caliber MT5621 providing exceptionally precise timekeeping as well. That said, the Tudor North Flag has been a remarkably underrated line of watches. In this article, we’ll take a look at the Tudor North Flag in detail and break down just why it deserves more attention from watch enthusiasts. Tudor’s First in-House Calibre Photo by Manuel Rebic from Flickr The Tudor North Flag, as mentioned, stood out because it featured the brand’s first-ever powerful in-house Caliber MT5621. As earlier versions of Tudor watches were equipped with caliber movements from external suppliers, the creation of its first in-house movement was a massive milestone for the brand. In fact, this was the major shift that allowed the brand to establish its own identity in the watch community and no longer be referred to as just a sister brand of Rolex. While it is true that the Tudor Pelagos was the first watch to be powered by the Caliber MT5621, it was the Tudor North Flag that proudly showcased its excellent functions and mechanisms with the North Flag’s see-through caseback. This feature is not one often found in Rolex watches, making the Tudor North Flag all the more distinctive. In fact, the Tudor North Flag serves as a testament to how Tudor expertly carves out its niche, setting itself apart from Rolex. The Inspiration Behind Tudor North Flag’s Existence Named after the British North Greenland Expedition, the Tudor North Flag actually takes inspiration from the 1952 expedition’s Oyster Prince time-telling accessory, as well as the exceptional 1970’s Tudor Ranger II. The Oyster Prince was historically crafted to be used by the crew of the British North Greenland Expedition back in 1952, which means that it was designed to be a reliable, robust, and highly accurate timepiece that could survive being exposed to all sorts of extreme environments. The Tudor North Flag took from the Oyster Prince a similar identity of being a tough, rigid, and highly precise timekeeper intended for the hardiest of survivalists. With regards to the overall design of the Tudor North Flag, on the other hand, a quick glance makes it immediately apparent that it has a resemblance to Tudor’s own Ranger II, an iconic timepiece from way back in the 1970s. Like the Ranger II, the Tudor North Flag features a similar arrow-shaped handset filled with lume and a heavy-based chapter ring. One difference between the two watches, however, is that the Tudor North Flag does not adopt the Ranger II’s oversized fluted bezel, opting instead for a smoother and more refined bezel. All in all, the Tudor North Flag is a fresh, modern take on the Ranger II. Up Close with Tudor North Flag Case Material: Stainless steel Dial: Black Case diameter: 40mm Movement: Calibre MT5621 Power reserve: 70 hours Water resistance: 100m Case and Bezel Right from the outset, the most striking feature you’re likely to notice from the unique Tudor North Flag is its sophisticated case. Crafted as a luxury sports watch, the stainless steel case of this timepiece has a slim build and clean lines with its sharp, angular edges. In addition, it features a high-tech steel bezel that is unusually lined with black ceramic on the outer rim and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that serves as protection for the dial. With its proportionate 40mm case diameter, previous owners have reported that the Tudor North Flag is extremely comfortable on the wrist, with a size that is just right. Its incorporated lugs and tapered crown are fine details that add to the lightweight profile of the watch. Along with its substantial 100m water resistance, this timepiece displays a contemporary appearance that is a modern twist on the vintage Tudor Ranger II. Dial The dial of the Tudor North Flag is yet another highlight of this handsome timepiece, as it boasts an avant-garde and minimalistic style. Along with its rectangular hour markers, the watch also displays two oversized Arabic numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock that dominate the black dial. The numerals and hour markers are all wrapped in white lume to provide excellent visibility even in poor lighting conditions. You will also notice the small rectangular date aperture located at the 3 o’clock position and a bright yellow power reserve indicator located at 9 o’clock that serves as a splash of color to the dial. This power reserve also works as a rotating disc, adding a touch of contemporaneity to this timepiece. Another elegant feature of the Tudor North Flag is its luminous silver-toned hour and minute hands, and vibrant yellow seconds hand with a rectangular tip. The white and yellow handset smartly contrasts against the black dial, which adds to the legibility of this timepiece. We can also find the Tudor name and logo printed on the dial, right under the 12 o’clock marker. Lume Tudor ensures that the hour markers and hands of the North Flag are all either coated or filled with luminescent material. This gives it a gorgeous light blue glow in low-lighting conditions, making time-telling easy no matter where you are. This is one of the most essential features a timepiece must have and the brand’s use of a high-end lume for the Tudor North Flag highlights how Tudor spared no expense in crafting this watch. Movement While the gorgeous aesthetics of the Tudor North Flag are definitely an eye-catcher, the real show-stopper when it comes to this watch is its movement. The Caliber MT5621 movement is, as previously mentioned, Tudor’s first-ever in-house caliber movement. It was a significant turning point for Tudor, as this ability to craft a top-notch movement with excellent engineering and craftsmanship helped the brand to build its own reputation instead of just being identified as a sister company of Rolex. As the Tudor North Flag was the primary vehicle that Tudor used to introduce the Caliber MT5621, this gives the watch a special status in the Tudor catalog and history indeed. Going back to Caliber MT5621 movement, it is a top-notch automatic movement that features a 4Hz beat rate, a bidirectional winding system equipped with an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring, and an adjustable inertia oscillator. It is a COSC-certified chronometer with a record of accuracy rating of not more than -2/+4 seconds, and as such is a highly reliable, accurate, and functional movement that you can rely on for years to come. It also features a whopping power reserve of up to 70 hours. This is a particular standout compared to other high-end sports watches, which tend to only offer up to 40 hours of power reserve. Moreover, this in-house movement is also surprisingly durable. Not only is it able to withstands shocks and external vibrations, but it is also anti-magnetic and has superior dimensional stability. It features a free-spring balance wheel, a design that is characteristic of high-end Swiss-made movements like those from prominent watchmakers Patek Philippe and Rolex. The mechanisms of the Caliber MT5621 can be observed through the see-through case back of the Tudor North Flag, allowing wearers to appreciate the grand and efficient design of this movement. Bracelet/Strap Tudor offers two different options for the strap of the North Flag. You can choose between a brushed, professional stainless steel strap or a yellow-stitched, black leather strap. The former is crafted with a solid satin finish, which blends perfectly with the matching stainless steel case. The yellow and black leather strap, on the other hand, pairs well with the neon accents visible on the Tudor North Flag’s sporty dial. Regardless of which one you opt to use, both straps are crafted by Tudor to be durable and easy to wear. Both of them feature safety catches and folding clasps that allow the straps to fit nicely and securely around wrists of any size. Pros and Cons of Tudor North Flag Despite all of the impressive attributes of the Tudor North Flag, it is not quite the perfect timepiece. That is why, before making a decision on the Tudor North Flag, you want to make sure to consider all the good and the bad first. We’ve come up with a list of pros and cons so you really know what you’re getting with the Tudor North Flag. Pros Excellent build and quality finish.  Each component of the Tudor North Flag watch is skillfully crafted by the brand to ensure its durability, reliability, and functionality. Furthermore, knowing that Tudor is one of the most reputable Swiss watchmakers, you can rest assured that it only uses premium materials to create its timepieces, and the Tudor North Flag is no exception.Equipped with Tudor’s first in-house movement and COSC-certified chronometer. One of the most noteworthy features of the Tudor North Flag is that it is equipped with the brand’s first-ever in-house movement, the Caliber MT5621. This movement is shock-resistant and has anti-magnetic capabilities, making it a durable movement with a long shelf life. It is also commended for its highly precise timekeeping, showcasing the identity and reliability of a genuine Swiss-made movement.Known for its affordability. Another highlight of the North Flag watch is its budget-friendly pricing. Considering the robust features this watch offers, getting it at a price that will not break your bank is certainly considered a steal. Cons Limited strap options. If you’re the type of person who loves to switch up the straps of your timepiece for different occasions, then sadly, this Tudor North Flag might not be for you. Although it has incorporated lugs to provide greater comfort against the wearer’s wrists, there isn’t really a diversity of choice available in terms of strap options. As mentioned, these North Flag watches only come with two types of straps, formal stainless steel, or a sporty black and yellow leather version. An alternative solution is to buy a custom-made strap, which, unfortunately, can be quite expensive.Not as popular as other Tudor collections. Despite all the features the Tudor North Flag offers, it remains quite an underrated timepiece. If you’re planning to buy a watch to invest in for the future, buying this watch might be a risk for you, particularly when it comes to resale value, as it isn’t as heavily sought-after as some of its Tudor peers. Two Variants of Tudor North Flag  1. TUDOR North Flag 91210N-0002 One notable feature of this version is its stunning black dial, boasting a contemporary and classic sporty look. This Tudor North Flag 91210N-0002 features a 40mm stainless steel case, a sapphire crystal to add extra protection to its dial, a see-through skeleton caseback, and a smooth black leather strap with a fold-over safety clasp to complete the overall classy, sporty look. It is equipped with the brand’s first-ever in-house automatic movement, famous for its high accuracy and resistance to shocks and magnetism. Aside from that, this Tudor model also comes equipped with a water resistance rating of up to 100 meters. You’ll notice that the handy date aperture can also be found at the 3 o’clock position. This first version of the Tudor North Flag is available for only $3,939 USD. 2. TUDOR North Flag 91210N-0001 This second version of Tudor North Flag features all the same characteristics as the previous watch. It also has a 40mm round stainless steel case with integrated lugs, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a see-through caseback that showcases the watch’s in-house Caliber MT5621 movement. It has an impressive power reserve of up to 70 hours and is equipped with 100 meters of water resistance. The only difference of this Tudor North Flag 91210N-0001 is its strap, which is made of stainless steel and offers more of a professional, classic feel with its clean geometry. This version is just a little pricier, retailing at $4,499 USD. Final Thoughts We can’t deny that we tend to opt for the most prestigious watchmakers like Rolex, Tag Heuer, or Omega when looking at Swiss luxury watch brands. Sometimes, we forget that it is not just the most prominent brands that are worthy of interest or capable of delivering high-quality timepieces. Indeed, Tudor, with its luxurious and reliable watches available at very reasonable prices, is definitely one to keep an eye on. In particular, the Tudor North Flag is a classic and functional timepiece that offers highly accurate timekeeping and a handsomely contemporary aesthetic. This timepiece was the vehicle through which Tudor introduced its first-ever in-house movement, which adds to the historical significance and depth of the Tudor North Flag as well, as part of this impressive Tudor milestone. At the end of the day, the Tudor North Flag is a durable, reliable, and functional time-telling accessory with an important history to boot. For these reasons, it is an excellent and underrated piece perfect for watch enthusiasts looking to expand their collections. Looking for other Tudor watches you would definitely want to add to your collection? Check our article on the Best Picks From Tudor Watches. All photos are credited to Watchshopping.com unless stated otherwise. Featured image from Manuel Rebic on Flickr.

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  6. Rolex Deepsea D-Blue: A Look at the Brand’s Top-Notch Dive Watch

    Rolex Deepsea D-Blue: A Look at the Brand’s Top-Notch Dive Watch

    Dive watches remain an iconic and timeless luxury item for men. While there are numerous options available in the horological market, we can’t deny that Rolex dive watch collections are the most sought-after pieces. This is particularly true of the famous Rolex Deepsea D-Blue, the acclaimed diving watch which provides a whopping 3,900 meters of water resistance. Although there is a wide variety of dive watches you can find in Rolex’s extensive catalog, such as its pioneer diving piece the Submariner, the Deepsea Blue simply stands out from the rest of its competitors. Given that Rolex always tries to go above and beyond when it comes to creating an exquisite time-telling accessory using its superb craftsmanship, innovation, and practical skills in horology, it is no surprise that the Rolex Sea-Dweller collection’s Deepsea Blue offers such impressive features. Aside from its top-notch water resistance, it is also equipped with a high-performance in-house Caliber 3235. This is a new generation movement produced by Rolex. It ensures that this diving timepiece offers the highest precision possible even when exposed to the harshest conditions underwater. What’s more, the Deepsea Blue features an elegant and luxurious face, so this wonderful timepiece could easily double as an everyday watch too. If you’re looking for a durable and classy dive watch to be used on your next exploration into the abyssal world, the Rolex Deepsea Blue will more than exceed your expectations.  A Quick Look at the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Watch In the horology industry, Rolex will always be the luxury watch manufacturer to beat. This Swiss brand has always been at the forefront of creating top-notch timepieces that showcase distinctive and memorable characteristics. The Rolex Sea-Dweller was introduced back in 1967 and since its first release, it has always been considered a true tool watch and diving accessory. As an early predecessor of the Submariner collection, the original Sea-Dweller was designed with certain basic functionalities. It aimed to not fail at meeting the needs of any avid diver when they head off to conquer the underwater world. Over the years, the different Sea-Dweller timepieces that have been released have featured varying underwater diving depth potentials, ranging from 610 meters to as deep as 3,900 meters. Earlier versions of the Rolex Sea-Dweller were also not equipped with a helium escape valve. The helium escape valve was only added when the latest Rolex Sea-Dweller model Ref. 126600 was launched back in 2017. Today, the Sea-Dweller collection is easily distinguishable from the rest of the Rolex lineup, as it does not feature a date magnifier, which is visible in most Rolex other models. One major milestone for the Sea-Dweller collection was when it introduced its first Rolex Deepsea model in 2008, featuring a “Ringlock system.” This system is now commonly used by skilled watchmakers when they sealing sapphire crystals to cases, as it ensures a more tighter fit so the crystal doesn’t simply come loose and leave the dial exposed. Another notable feature the Sea-Dweller added was its “Glidelock clasp” and diver extension link, which allow the watch’s bracelet to be more securely fastened around the diver’s wrist so it won’t fall off, even when the diver is dressed in diving gear. These advancements in the Sea-Dweller’s designs over the years are a testament to how Rolex has consistently sought to upgrade this early dive watch, creating a collection that you can always rely on for excellent and improving quality. Back in 2012, famous film director James Cameron navigated the abyssal world at a depth of around 11,000 meters using a submersible vessel. This submersible was called the Deepsea Challenger, and it carried Cameron and his crew to the bottom of the Pacific Ocean as part of a project to produce a movie named Deepsea Challenge 3D. As part of this project, Rolex created and designed a particular prototype version of the Rolex Deepsea timepiece. This timepiece eventually came to be known as the Oyster Perpetual Date Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA CHALLENGE. This diver watch features water resistance up to a stunning 12,000 meters, making this the perfect watch to use when exploring what’s beneath the Pacific Ocean. To celebrate and honor the project’s success and accomplishment, in 2014, Rolex released a new model of the Deepsea, which they called the Rolex Sea Dweller Deepsea D-Blue 116660. This model of the Deepsea Blue was quite similar to the original prototype in terms of technical functions, but differed in appearance. The 2014 Deepsea Blue featured a two-hued dial, fading from blue to black, a visual representation of the depths of the vast ocean. This visual tick is also the reason why this timepiece is the first in the Deepsea line to carry the ‘D-Blue’ moniker. In addition, the dial had the word ‘DEEPSEA’ printed in green, derived from the color of James Cameron’s Deepsea Challenger vessel. This watch is now famously known among watch collectors and aficionados as the Deepsea James Cameron, and reached popular heights never seen by the original Deepsea Blue in 2008. Yet another new version of the Sea Dweller Deepsea Blue was announced back in 2017, at Baselword, called the Sea-Dweller Deepsea Blue Ref. 126600. In 2018, this model of the Deepsea Blue was launched. This latest variant was introduced as an enlarged version of the Deepsea Blue 126600, featuring a date magnifier and equipped with a refreshed version of the caliber 3235. In short, all these different variants of the Rolex Deepsea Blue can be found in the brand’s extensive catalog. The first-ever version was referred to as the Deepsea 116660, featuring a grand yet straightforward black dial with white text on its dial. The second version, the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue, was officially introduced to the watch community back in 2014, and marked the growing popularity of the Deepsea lineup. And the newest version is the popular Rolex Deepsea Blue Ref. 126660, launched at Baselworld. Let’s take a closer look at what exactly the latest Deepsea Blue has to offer. Up Close with Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Ref. 126660 The original version of the Rolex Deepsea D-blue was released in August 2014. It was upgraded to the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Ref. 126660 in 2018, offering newer functions and features so that it could better serve as a diving watch accessory to be utilized for your next underwater adventure. It comes with excellent qualities that you’d be hard-pressed to find in other diving timepieces, which is a huge reason why this watch has really dominated the world of diving watches. The newest Deepsea D-Blue 126660 does offer many features that the original has, but with some tweaks and upgrades. One central change was made to the lug size, so that it now measures 21mm, smaller than the original 22mm lug size. It also comes with a much bigger clasp on its bracelet, making it a more comfy dive watch to wear than the first Deepsea D-Blue. As with other Rolex Deepsea models, each Deepsea D-Blue 126660 timepiece is skilfully crafted and powered by a first-class caliber 3235 movement. This model also features a broader strap, and a case that has been slightly redesigned compared to previous versions of this Rolex Sea-Dweller watch. Other than that, many of the essential parts are still intact and unchanged. It is still the best diving watch in the Rolex Sea Dweller collection that you can find when planning a scuba diving adventure. Its main highlight is that it is a robust, durable, and functional piece crafted to survive virtually any variant temperature underwater. It is the perfect watch for anyone seeking to prove Rolex’s outstanding skills as a legendary watchmaker. Rolex Deepsea D-Blue 116660 DB from Watchshopping.com Case: 904L Oyster Steel Case dimension: 44 mm Dial: D-Blue Water-resistant: 3,900 m or 12,800 feet Power reserve up to 70-hour (Certified as Superlative Chronometer) Bezel and Case Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Bracelet l Photo by jilemon from Flickr One extremely distinguishable feature of the Rolex Deepsea Blue is its case. Crafted from 904L Oystersteel to ensure its durability, the case measures about 44mm in diameter. Oystersteel is known for being one of the best materials to use when making watch cases, since it possesses superb resistance. It also offers an excellent, gleaming finish after polishing and maintains its grandeur even when exposed to the harshest of environments and temperatures underwater. Some users of Deepsea Blue report that the watch can feel slightly bigger when worn on the wrist. Despite measuring 44mm, it looks a little more like a 45mm case. The good thing, however, is that the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue still feels extremely comfortable around your wrist and gives you a nice sense of balance when wearing it. Its bezel features a black, unidirectional, and rotating ceramic bezel with numerals graduated on a 60-minute scale. The bezel is secured in place using a Ringlock system. If you’re not familiar with the Ringlock system, it is an innovative case architecture made by Rolex itself which allows the Rolex Deepsea Blue to resist any sorts of massive pressures underwater even at depths of 3,900 meters. It is made using three elements: nitrogen-alloyed steel on its central ring that shapes the system’s backbone, a sapphire crystal (5.5 mm thick), and grade 5 titanium for its caseback. The Rolex Deepsea D-Blue also comes with a helium escape valve. The helium escape valve is a type of safety valve created by Rolex back in 1967 and it functions as a decompression chamber for the timepiece so it can survive the most extreme pressures underwater. Dial Even with just a quick glance at the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue, you’d be hard-pressed to forget its stunning and unique dial. This timepiece showcases a perfect two-toned gradient dial, starting from a brilliant blue hue at the top to the engulfing black depths below. Its two-color gradient dial commemorates the accomplishment of man’s journey into the ocean depths, exploring the deepest place on earth — the iconic Mariana Trench. Furthermore, the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue’s dial, with its semi-glossy features and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, can capture and reflect light gorgeously. This is a dial you cannot find in the rest of Rolex’s watch collections. It is the main highlight of this timepiece, a grand and awe-inspiring face that is sure to catch everyone’s attention. Movement Another remarkable feature of the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue is that it is equipped with a powerful in-house caliber 3235 that comes with an antimagnetic Parachrom-Blue hairspring. The automatic caliber 3235 is an upgraded version of the caliber 3135 that is used in the older Rolex Deepsea Blue. This caliber is the newest generation movement crafted by Rolex. It comes with a whopping 14 patents, a testament to just how far Rolex pushed the limits of watchmaking technology with the caliber 3235. The caliber 3235 offers a high power reserve of up to 70 hours, impressively high time precision, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, and reliability and functionality that any wearer can depend on when exploring the abyssal world. Furthermore, the caliber 3235 features Rolex’s newest Chronergy, a perfect combination of the existing Paramagnetic blue parachrom hairspring and high energy efficiency. It is also COSC Chronometer-certified, which guarantees its powerful performance. Caseback Equipped with a titanium caseback, the Rolex Deepsea Blue is impressively flexible because of the natural qualities of the alloy, providing it more resilience and durability against massive pressures and impacts. It is a caseback crafted to survive and resist even the extreme pressures underwater.  Bracelet/Strap Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Bracelet l Photo by jilemo from Flickr Like the original version of the Deepsea D-Blue watch, this Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Ref. 126660 also features a famous classic Oysterlock bracelet. One upgrade this model comes with, however, is its larger, less tapering strap, which is paired with slightly bigger lugs. This was a big improvement from the original model, which was crafted with too-narrow lugs, so it sometimes felt unbalanced when sitting on a wearer’s wrist. The redesigned lugs of the Deepsea D-Blue Ref. 126660, with its larger fit, offers more comfort to the wearer and looks more proportionately shaped on the watch. This timepiece also features an Oysterlock clasp to avoid the watch suddenly coming loose from your wrist, and a Glidelock system like its previous version. The bracelet also comes with a revamped diver’s extension, allowing the Rolex Deepsea Blue to fit well on your wrist even when wearing gloves or a wetsuit. Price It is not news that Rolex watches do not come at a low price. Every Rolex timepiece is the product of expert Swiss craftsmanship and Rolex’s extensive history and experience as a watch manufacturer, and all of this shows in its cost. Owning this latest version of the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue 126660 will cost you about USD 17,399.00 retail. Considering the impressive attributes of this watch, this price is honestly extremely worth it. Not only do you get a durable, functional, and first-class dive watch, but you also get all the comfort and ease of wearing a classic Rolex timepiece. The Original: Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Reference 116660 Rolex-Deepsea-D-Blue-116660-2 l Photo by jilemo from FlickrRolex Deepsea D-Blue 16660 l Photo by jilemo from FlickrTwo years before the release of the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Ref. 116660, famous film director James Cameron navigated underwater at a depth of around 11,000 meters using a submarine vessel. The vessel was called the Deepsea Challenger, designed to be able to survive the depths of the Pacific Ocean. As part of the this project, Rolex created a particular prototype version of the Rolex Deepsea timepiece, which eventually became popularly known as Oyster Perpetual Date Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA CHALLENGE. This timepiece features water-resistance of up to 12,000 meters, a perfect watch to use when exploring what’s beneath the Pacific Ocean. In 2014, the Swiss luxury watch brand released its newest version of the Rolex Deepsea, featuring a D-Blue dial with the reference number 116660, to commemorate the success of James Cameron’s abyssal expedition. This refreshed version is similar to the previous model in some technical aspects. The greatest distinction, however, is that the 2014 Rolex Deepsea Blue featured a two-tone dial. In addition, the words DEEPSEA were written on the dial in a green tint, a tribute to the inspiration that James Cameron’s Deepsea Challenger vessel was for this watch. Nowadays, this version of the watch is widely known as the Deepsea James Cameron. The Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Ref. 116660 is equipped with a 904L stainless steel case developed by Rolex specifically for this watch. Some of its key features include a Ringlock system, a 5mm thick protective sapphire crystal, and a satin-finished and brushed caseback made of titanium. Its dial, with a radiant blue to black gradient, also adds to the natural beauty of this timepiece. In addition, it features a useful date aperture located at the 3 o’clock position. Aside from that, this watch is also equipped with an Oysterlock bracelet measuring 26 mm long. This means that it comes with an Oysterlock safety clasp fitted with its flip-lock extension system. It is crafted this way to ensure it can survive any sorts of impacts and pressures underwater without any risk of coming loose and falling off the wearer’s wrist. It is also equipped with a top-notch Rolex in-house caliber 3135 movement to ensure high accuracy and precision even in aquatic environments.  Today, the Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Ref. 116660 is available for USD 15,500.00. This might be quite an exorbitant price to sum, but if you consider all its top-class features as a diving watch, it is actually quite a fair price. Keep in mind, also, that any watch from Rolex tends to appreciate in value over the years. As such, Rolex watches also make for perfect investment pieces. Opting to buy this Rolex Deepsea Blue watch will not only give you a time-telling accessory to use on your next scuba diving adventure but also offers you the chance to be the owner of a true horological masterpiece. Final Thoughts Rolex never fails to craft high-caliber, high-performing timepieces. Although the Sea-Dweller collection is just a predecessor of Rolex’s first-ever collection of diving timepieces under the Submariner collection, it does not stop the former from being a very sought-after dive timepiece. This is especially true with the updated Rolex Deepsea D-Blue watches. These watches display the brand’s excellent craftsmanship and expertise in horology, offering superb features such as water resistance of up to 3,900 meter and a top-notch in-house caliber 3235 movements. With its iconic face and functionality, this Rolex Deepsea D-Blue diving watch really deserves to be on your radar. Want to know more about other Rolex models, particularly the most expensive watches in their extensive catalog? Check this review we have about 15 Most Expensive Rolex Watches. Featured image from amh1998 on Pixabay

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  7. Valjoux 7750 – Valjoux’s Greatest Invention

    Valjoux 7750 – Valjoux’s Greatest Invention

    No wristwatch is complete without its movement. The movement is one of the most fundamental components of any timepiece. Quite simply, it is the mechanism that keeps your watch ticking. Without it, your wristwatch would be dead.   Every watch enthusiast has their own opinions on their favorite and least-preferred movements. That being said, one of the most talked-about watch movements in the history of horology is the Valjoux 7750. Some argue that the Valjoux 7750 is one of the most exceptional chronograph movements ever made. Others, on the other hand, would say that the movement is cheap, generic, and, to an extent, outdated. Indeed, the debate over the Valjoux 7750 has gone on for years. With that said, let’s find out more about Valjoux and the making of the 7750. In addition, we will also learn about what is inside the Valjoux 7550 and how it acquired its reputation. By taking a closer look at this movement, we’re going to show you just which side of the debate was right about the Valjoux 7750 after all. Valjoux – The Foundation of Many Photo from eBay Valjoux is a Swiss manufacturer renown for producing quality mechanical watch movements. Valjoux derived its name from the original address of the company, located in Joux Valley, which is otherwise known as Vallée de Joux. Valjoux was an independent manufacturer until they joined AUSAG in 1931. AUSAG, now known as Swatch Group, is a conglomerate that took in numerous independent movement manufacturers. Many of the manufacturers AUSAG has bought throughout the years are extremely well-known names. These include, among others, Blancpain, Hamilton, Longines, Oris, and of course, Valjoux. The competition over the creation of newer, more innovative, and more technologically advanced movements has always been an intense one in the watch industry. In 1969, Zenith released the El Primero, a new chronograph watch that possessed the most precise automatic movement they ever invented. Dubois Depraz, in collaboration with Breitling, Tag Heuer, and Hamilton, also unveiled their latest ground-breaking movement, which they called the Chronomatic movement. While these were all brainchildren that rocked the waters of the horology field, none of them could compare to the revolutionary quartz tidal wave that changed the landscape forever. Quartz Crisis – End of an Era  From the moment it emerged on the market in the early 1970s, the quartz movement has dominated the market with an iron fist. After just a few years, most people were turning to their Seikos and other quartz-operated timepieces, while the old mechanical wristwatches were left at home gathering dust. The quartz movement proved to be the nightmare of every traditional Swiss movement manufacturer. Not only were quartz movements incredibly accurate in keeping time, but they were also much cheaper to make. With such heavy competition, Valjoux had to think of something quick. They hired a young watchmaker named Edmond Capt to provide them with a movement that could compete with Zenith, Dubois, and most importantly, the all-powerful quartz movement. What they needed was a sturdy and dependable movement that was easy to manufacture. In addition, the new movement had to be chronograph-rated and feature a quick-set day and date function. Their expectations were high and Edmond had to meet their requirements as soon as possible.  Thankfully, Capt was a quick thinker. He made use of the Valjoux 7733 as the foundation for his new movement. The Valjoux 7733 is an old chronograph movement of Valjoux’s, released in 1969, with features such as a small seconds sub-dial, a seconds counter, but no day or date function. Capt’s new movement kept the basic timekeeping functions that the Valjoux 7733 also provided. His most innovative customisation to his new movement was having the column wheel replaced with a lever and camp system. Due to this adjustment, it became easier for Valjoux to mass-produce this upgraded chronograph movement since it was more affordable and required less precision. With the additional help of computer technology, Capt’s invention, the Valjoux 7750, became a reality. During the first year of its release, the Valjoux was able to sell 100,000 units of the 7750. It looked like a bright enough future for the 7750, but dark clouds revealed themselves soon enough. Even with such an ingenious design, it was not enough to challenge the quartz movement. In 1975, both Zenith and Valjoux succumbed to their shrinking markets. Zenith had to discontinue the El Primero while Valjoux halted the production of their Valjoux 7750. In addition, the managers of Valjoux planned to destroy the molds and dies for the Valjoux 7750 as well. Capt, who viewed the 7750 as one of his best creations, was affronted by the thought. He decided to keep the molds and dies of the 7750 in the hope that he might one day still be able to use them. You might think, at this point, that Valjoux and the 7750 seemed to be on their last legs. Thanks to Capt’s actions, however, a spark of hope soon revealed itself to the mechanical movement industry. Re-igniting the flame As mentioned, the quartz movement took the 1970s by storm. The trend of quartz-operated timepieces remained strong and showed no signs of stopping. For the Swiss companies to survive what came to be known as the Quartz Crisis, they had to consolidate. AUSAG and another conglomerate named SSIH merged to become what we know today as the Swatch Group. This newly made group went on to integrate with Piaget and later bought Heuer in 1982.  In the next decade, although quartz remained king, the demand for mechanical movements recommenced. The 1980s was the dawn of a new era for automatic watches. After the formation of the Swatch Group occurred, Valjoux merged with another movement manufacturer known as ETA. A collaboration between the two Swiss companies took place and led to the birth of the Valjoux/ETA 7750. This improved 7750 showcased a highly customizable base and 4Hz beat rate. One of the first watchmakers to take advantage of the latest 7750 was IWC. Technical director Kurt Klaus opted to use the 7750 as the base for their newest invention, the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Kurt famously designed the Da Vinci Chronograph entirely by hand instead of using computers. The decision was a good move and gave the timepiece a distinguished reputation that added to its classic design. Thanks to the success of the Da Vinci, IWC returned to the 7750 for yet another project. As a commemoration of the company’s 125th anniversary, IWC manufactured the Destriero Scafusia. For this watch, IWC made use of yet another customized 7750 that featured a flying tourbillon, a minute repeater, a split-second chronograph, and a perpetual calendar. The success of IWC’s 7750 watches eventually led the watchmaking company Fortis to also adopt the ETA/Valjoux 75750 into their crafts. Fortis had to modify the 7750 calibre as their target market – Russian cosmonauts – were dissatisfied with the lack of an alarm feature in the 7750. In order to fix this issue, Fortis hired a watchmaker named Paul Gerber to design an alarm that could pair well with the 7750. As a result, Fortis was able to develop the first automatic watch with an alarm. Aside from that, Gerber also made other modifications. He added a second spring barrel to help power the alarm in the timepiece and made adjustments to the rotor so that it could better supply power to the barrel. As time passed by, more and more watchmakers understood the appeal of the ETA/Valjoux 7750 and started to incorporate it into their products. All these different watchmakers had different needs and requirements to fulfill, and so each of them modified the 7750 to meet the standards of their specific target audience. Over time, there became hundreds of variations of the 7750 out in the world, populating the various case backs of numerous watches. As a result, the 7750 has become one of the most frequently used movements, with many unique versions of itself in the ocean of timepieces out there. Anatomy of the 7750 Now that we’ve gone through the history and the arduous journey undergone by the Valjoux 7750, it’s time for us to take a look at what makes up the composition of this mechanical movement. First of all, the 7750 is a mechanical, manual-wind movement that uses a three-plane cam system to operate its mechanisms. The standard 7750 has subdials at the 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. The original Valjoux 7750 units contained 17 jewels, while most modern ETA 7750 variants hold 25 jewels, which allows for less wear and tear. The movement comes with a day/date function positioned at the 3 o’clock position of the timepiece. However, not all versions of the 7750 have this feature since some manufacturers opt to remove the day and date aperture to offer a cleaner, less cluttered look on the dial. The original 7750 contained mechanisms that were partially made out of plastic. More modern, modified 7750s frequently replace the plastic parts with metal, as it is more durable and sturdier. Contemporary models of the ETA 7750 also exhibit a faster frequency. These days, the 7750 produces 28,800 vibrations per hour instead of 21,600 from previous versions. Some modified variants of the 7750 have been manufactured on a wide scale. Apart from the base 7750 model, we also have the 7751, 7753, and 7754 movements. Out of all these units, the 7751 has the most additional features. The 7751 comes with a central date hand, a day and month sub-dial, and a sub-dial for moon phases. Following that, we have the 7753 movement. Unlike other ETA/Valjoux 7750s, the 7753 variant has its sub-dials positioned in the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions of the main dial. The 7753 also positions the date aperture at the 4 o’clock position of the watch face instead of the usual 3 o’clock. Lastly, we have the final version, the 7754. The one thing that the 7754 has that other models do not is a GMT hand. That said, aside from the mentioned differences, all ETA/Valjoux 7750s operate fairly similarly otherwise. 7750’s Notoriety Despite the marvelous feats the 7750 attained throughout the years, it still has its fair share of doubters and naysayers. Why do some people dismiss the 7750?  Cheap Over the years, the 7750 has become the go-to movement for many watchmakers for its customisable capabilities and affordability. Other watch fanatics, however, argue that the cheapness of the 7750 brings down the overall value of the watch. Since the watch industry uses the 7550 in all categories and types of timepieces, many argue that the contrast set up between luxury and more economic watches is devalued by the presence of the 7550. Many watch wearers would be displeased by the knowledge that their luxurious $3,000 watch uses the same movement as a more budget wristwatch worth $300. Generic and Mundane People can indeed get tired from seeing the same thing over and over again. As we’ve mentioned, since this mechanical movement appears in a vast number of different watches, the architecture of the ETA/Valjoux is simply too ubiquitous and has become too mundane for many watch enthusiasts. This is why some would prefer in-house movements for their luxury timepieces, as it brings to the table something that is a little more distinct and sophisticated. To them, the ETA/Valjoux 7750 is just too generic and overused, bringing down the exclusivity and class of their luxury timekeeper. Cam-Actuated There is an ongoing debate between the strengths of column-wheel chronographs as opposed to those of cam-actuated systems. Although the performances of both are nearly identical, some still prefer column-wheel chronographs. The naysayers of the cam-actuated system have claimed that because the 7750 is cam-actuated, when the watch starts running, it is frequently accompanied by a sudden jerk of the seconds hand. In reality, this is actually because the gears of the cam-actuated mechanism are merely fixing themselves before initiating the system. As opposed to the supposed jerkiness of the cam-actuated system, some argue that chronograph movements that use a column wheel tend to run smoother. The pushers in the cam-actuated system have also been criticized as being harder to press than the pushers present in column-wheel movements. It all boils down to preferences Ultimately, none of the reasons mentioned above are factual. In the end, it all comes down to what a person likes and what they dislike. Collectors and enthusiasts alike may regard the ETA/Valjoux 7750 as banal, but it also has strengths that they can not deny. The 7750 has proven itself to be an absolute workhorse. Despite being a relic from the past, this humble automatic movement has survived all sorts of adversities and advancements and continues to produce satisfying results. It may be generic, but there is a reason why so many highly-regarded watchmakers have chosen the 7750 for their quality timepieces. Valjoux 7750 Watches 1. IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph First on the list is a watch that was briefly mentioned earlier in the article, the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar. As the name reveals, Leonardo Da Vinci was the inspiration in designing this particular IWC Perpetual Calendar. The IWC Da Vinci was the first in its series to be operated by a mechanical movement. A caliber known as the IWC 79261 controlled the inner machinations of the watch. You might not be able to tell from the name alone, but the IWC 79621 is actually a Valjoux 7750 that was heavily modified to cater to the needs of the IWC Da Vinci. As stated previously in the article, it was Kurt Klaus who brought this movement to IWC. Klaus refused the use of computers and chose to modify the movement by hand. The resulting IWC Da Vinci timepiece was a huge success and it marked the comeback of luxury mechanical watches amidst the era of quartz. Photo by Time and Watches 2. Sinn 358 Diapal Pilot Chronograph The Diapal Pilot is an example of a modern watch that uses the Valjoux 7750. In this modified variant of the Valjoux 7750, 25 jewels hold the movement to prevent the apparatus from experiencing additional wear and tear. The Diapal Pilot is the first and only model of the Sinn 358 Chronograph series to utilize the Valjoux 7750. Later iterations of the Sinn 358 replaced the 7750 either with a Sellita SW 500 or a Concepto C99001. Funnily enough, both of these movements based their designs and functions on the 7750. Sinn uses all three mechanisms in different versions of their Instrument Chronograph series. The three watch systems may not be the same, but they all promise reliability and durability. Photo by Sinn 3. Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Calibre 16 DD Automatic Horology history associates Heuer and Valjoux in several instances. Aside from their mutual affiliation with the Swatch Group, Valjoux has also supplied many Heuer timepieces with 7750 calibers. In 2005, Heuer released their newest Carrera Automatic, which featured their latest movement, the Calibre 16. In making the Calibre 16, Heuer introduced the world of watches to their version of a modified Valjoux 7750. The Calibre 16 is utilized in several timepieces from different Tag Heuer collections, including Carrera, Link, and Aquaracer. Two years ago, Heuer stopped using the 7750 as the base for their Calibre 16 and replaced it with the Sellita SW 500. The new Calibre 16 now occupies the casebacks of Heuer’s main ranges of chronograph watches namely the Aquaracer, Carrera, and Formula 1. 4. Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Automatic  Hamilton created the X-Wind Automatic to commemorate their association with the US Airmail. Although they found that the 7750 had a decent enough performance, they were not entirely satisfied with the longevity of the 7750’s power reserve. After a few customizations to the Valjoux 7750 base, Hamilton produced their very own H-21. The upgrades resulted in a modern and more accurate 7750 with a new power reserve that can last for a whopping 60 hours. Compared to other watchmakers, Hamilton made fewer modifications to the base 7750. Despite this, the H-21 is one of the most notable innovations in the Hamilton lineup. The movement was later awarded COSC certification, and the Khaki Aviation X-Wind Automatic became a hit among Hamilton’s audience.  Photo by Hamilton 5. Breitling Avenger II Here’s a fun fact — Leonardo Dicaprio wore this watch in the 2006 movie Blood Diamond. The timepiece appeared in many scenes and is one of Breitling’s most well-known models. Like every other watch in this list, Breitling made several adjustments to the Valjoux 7750. Through their efforts, the company brought the Breitling 13 caliber to the world of horology. The Breitling 13 features a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour with a 42-hour power reserve. Due to its unidirectional ratcheted bezel, the rotor of the Avenger II can move freely. The result? A lively timepiece that “wobbles” gleefully on the owner’s wrist.  Photo by Breitling Final Thoughts To this day, the 7750 is arguably one of the most recognizable and iconic automatic movements. There aren’t many movements in the scope of horology that have made an impact quite like it. The ETA/Valjoux 7750 is a rugged and easily modifiable mechanism currently used by many reputable companies. Although it was first named the Valjoux 7750, today, it is officially called the ETA 7750. Despite the renaming, however, most people still refer to it as the Valjoux 7750. Although it is not the most advanced movement, a finely-tuned Valjoux 7750 can reach heights that are equal to just about any modern movement out there. No matter which side of the debate you’re on, it is undeniable that the Valjoux 7750 is of great importance to watch history. Not only was the 7750 a component that gave relevance to the remnants of Swiss watchmakers, but it was also a crucial innovation responsible for reviving the whole industry of mechanical movements. Just as importantly, it was the movement that allowed so many watch manufacturers to unleash their creativity, making broad modifications to the Valjoux 7750 to best suit their purposes. Released over the decades, these modified variants prove, time and time again, that the Valjoux 7750 is as strong as ever. Valjoux is not out of the watch game and does not plan to leave anytime soon. Looking for a watch you can travel with? Here are the 20 Best Travel Watches for Globetrotters and Frequent Flyers. Featured Image by: Wikimedia Commons

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  8. All About Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut Collection

    All About Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut Collection

    When talking about luxury watches, brands like Omega, Rolex, Tudor, and the like are the ones that typically come to mind. However, people who are invested and familiar with watchmaking and Haute Horlogerie know that there is so much more to this world than just these few big names. Watch manufacturers like Audemar Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Patek Philippe have been around for over a century now and are just as highly regarded by watch connoisseurs. Patek Philippe, for example, offers a wide catalogue of timepieces that are deeply coveted by serious collectors. If you’re interested, stick around, because we will be talking about anything and everything related to Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut collection, which is one of the most sought-after ranges out there.  Patek Philippe: A Brief History This Swiss brand’s origin dates back to 1839 when Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek founded their own company, called Patek, Czapek & Cie. Though their business was met with success, the two entrepreneurs ended up parting ways due to increasing differences. In 1844, Patek met horologist Jean Adrien Philippe at the Industrial Exposition in France where Philippe had just been awarded bronze for his innovations involving a keyless winding and hand-setting system. That chance encounter led to them eventually becoming business partners as they cofounded Patek Philippe & Co., starting a journey in which they would change the watchmaking game forever. Being one of the most highly regarded timepiece manufacturers to ever exist, it is only expected that Patek Philippe has had its fair share of milestones and breakthroughs through the decades. From patents for numerous innovations to countless firsts in horological world records, the Swiss brand has been a strong and steady presence in the luxury watchmaking world since the beginning. This is precisely why Patek Philippe is considered as a part of Haute Horlogerie’s holy trinity, alongside Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. At present, Patek has 9 collections with over 150 models in its current catalogue, one of which is the exceptional Patek Philippe Aquanaut lineup. All About the Aquanaut Collection  Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut collection is one with a very deep history. Today, virtually any watch from this line would fall into the category of being highly sought-after, but this wasn’t always the case. One could describe the Aquanaut line as a work in progress for many years before it became the iconic collection it is now.  Let’s begin by talking about a different (but equally iconic) Patek Philippe collection called the Nautilus, which was launched in the early 70s.  Those familiar with luxury timepieces probably know that the Aquanaut has, from its inception, been associated with this nautical-inspired range. Back then, owning a Nautilus guaranteed you a spot at fancy yacht parties hosted by the elite. It was regarded by many as the perfect representation of a luxury sports watch.  At this point, you’re probably wondering: why make a new collection if the Nautilus was doing so well in the first place? Well, come the 1990s, a phenomenon called the dot-com boom occurred amidst a global recession. During this period of time, many people started leaning towards technology and the Internet to earn money. Lots of young millionaires emerged and they were more than willing to spend their newfound fortunes on anything and everything luxury. With this shift in global fortunes, Patek Philippe saw both a challenge and an opportunity. They wanted to make the most out of the situation by creating a new collection that would bring the youth to Patek Philippe. Following the success of the Nautilus, the Swiss brand drew inspiration from it, eventually leading to the birth of the Aquanaut. The Aquanaut started out as Patek Philippe’s attempt at wooing a younger market, and to some degree it was quite successful. The original Aquanaut was designed to be nothing short of casual, sporty, youthful, and luxurious; every aspect of it was immediately appealing to its intended younger audience. That being said, however, the Swiss brand knew that keeping the attention of their longtime patrons was just as important. Unfortunately, many older collectors and watch connoisseurs were less impressed. They saw the Aquanaut as a mere variation of the Nautilus, but without Gerald Genta’s prestigious signature. Come 1998, Patek Philippe released a new variant of the Aquanaut with the reference number 5065. Many perceive this model as the one that had a broader market appeal and successfully attracted a wider variety of people compared to the original. In the next years that followed, Patek Philippe continued to expand the Aquanaut collection by releasing different pieces under the said range. Eventually, it became just as iconic and well-recognized as the other top collections in the Swiss brand’s arsenal. At present, with numerous variations released over the past two decades, the Aquanaut is one of the sought-after timepieces in the world of luxury sports watches.  Iconic Aquanaut Pieces  It has been over 20 years since the first Aquanaut watch came out and it’s crazy how highly regarded the collection has become. With that said, why don’t we take a closer look at some of the most coveted Aquanauts released through the years?  Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5065 ‘Jumbo’ This Patek Philippe Aquanaut was first launched back in 1998. It is known to be the watch that truly changed the public’s perspective regarding the Aquanaut collection. The Aquanaut Ref. 5065 comes in either a steel or yellow gold case paired with a comfortable rubber strap. Meanwhile, its black dial follows a textured grenade pattern with tritium markers on the minute track. This iconic model is powered by a 315 SC movement.  Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167A ‘10th Anniversary Edition’ This Aquanaut was released in celebration of the collection’s 10-year anniversary back in 2007. In comparison to the models that came prior to it, the 5167A offers a more refined and subtle look which was a style preferred by many in the 21st century. It comes in the iconic stainless steel case along with a composite black strap that perfectly fits the understated style of the watch. This piece also features a black embossed dial with large luminescent hands, Arabic numerals, and a date window at 3 o’clock.  In terms of technical details, it has a self-winding mechanical movement and offers resistance to water up to 120 meters.  Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5650G ‘Advanced Research Travel Time’ The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5650G is one of the most controversial pieces in the collection. Without a doubt, it is the result of continuous technical innovations by the Swiss brand over the years. Even with just the exterior, you can already tell that it is an advanced and futuristic watch. It comes in an 18K white gold case paired with a composite strap in night blue. The embossed dial features an interesting open heart display, a complex time zone function, a day/night indicator, and an analog date counter. All these are possible thanks to two crucial innovations: an optimized Spiromax balance spring and a flexible mechanism. It should be noted that this watch is an acquired taste for many. Some might think that it is ‘trying too hard’, and it is a fair criticism to say that the dial of this watch is a little cluttered and has too much going on, which can be distracting for wearers. That being said, Patek Philippe’s goal with this was to truly showcase the technical advancements it had achieved, and in that regard, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5650G has acquitted itself admirably. Patek Philippe Aquanaut: Key Aspects Now that we know more about the Aquanaut and its origin, let’s delve into the key aspects that make this collection so unique and coveted.  Distinct Dial & Strap  It is undeniable that the Aquanaut has one of the most distinctive dials out there. Back in 1997, ‘bold and proud’ was a theme followed by many, be it in fashion or lifestyle in general. Patek Philippe took that to heart, which led to the conceptualization of this pronounced embossed pattern. What’s even more remarkable is that they also came out with a strap that perfectly complemented the dial, making it a true statement piece. However, over the years, trends continued to evolve, so the Swiss brand made sure to incorporate little tweaks here and there with the design. Now, the modern-day Aquanaut still follows the same embossed pattern but in a more quiet and refined fashion.  120m Water Resistance This aspect of the Aquanaut is probably expected since it draws inspiration from the sea and nautical themes. Since the Aquanaut is a relative of the ever-so famous Nautilus, having providing good water resistance isn’t something new for the brand. Most of the pieces in the current Aquanaut collection boast a water resistance of up to 120 meters. This excellent feature paired with a beautiful design makes the Aquanaut even more appealing.  Self-Winding Movement  Patek Philippe has been creating their own in-house calibers for countless decades now. They surely have it all, whether it’s quartz, automatic, or manual-winding movements. The Aquanaut collection is actually powered by a self-winding movement which makes use of gold rotors for optimal yield. Patek Philippe made sure that all the materials utilized in crafting the calibre complemented each other in order to maximize its full potential.  Selection of Patek Philippe Aquanaut This next section will be a closer look at some of the Patek Philippe Aquanauts currently available in the market that you could easily get for yourself.  Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G This Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G just screams youthful and luxurious. The unusual khaki color is what makes this timepiece so fresh and different compared to the other Aquanauts. With this watch, you get a sense of adventure that just pushes you to go out and explore. This Jumbo Aquanaut model comes in a white gold case paired with a composite bracelet in khaki green. Its embossed dial, which is of the same color as the strap, includes silver applied numerals, luminescent hands and markers, and an unobtrusive date window at the 3 o’clock position. Lastly, it has a see-through sapphire crystal caseback through which its high-performing caliber 324 SC is visible.  Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5072R This next model is nothing short of fancy and extravagant. The Aquanaut Ref. 5072R is the perfect Patek Philippe Aquanaut for all the women who enjoy dazzling, luxurious accessories. This Aquanaut comes in an exquisite rose gold case and a polymer strap in pearly beige. Its mother-of-pearl dial, designed in a checkerboard pattern, includes luminescent hands, Roman numerals, diamond hour markers, and a date window. It also has a diamond-set bezel and a sapphire crystal caseback through which the beautiful self-winding movement is visible. This timepiece is definitely a must-have for all the lavish ladies out there.  Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167/1A Third on this list is a more classic Patek Philippe Aquanaut watch for men. The Aquanaut Ref. 5167/1A is a gorgeous, versatile piece that would complement any ensemble. This model comes in a professional-looking case and bracelet both made of stainless steel. Its black dial follows the same pattern and layout as the other Aquanauts with large luminescent hands and markers. Much like the other pieces mentioned, this Aquanaut is driven by a calibre 324 SC with a power reserve of up to 45 hours. Ultimately, it is the quintessential option that should definitely be on every watch connoisseurs’ radar.  Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5164R The Aquanaut Ref. 5164R, also known as the Travel Time, is a timepiece that fully showcases Patek Philippe’s technological prowess. The best part about this watch is that it looks just as amazing as it is functional. This model comes in a rose gold case paired with a polymer bracelet in warm dark brown. Aside from the typical Aquanaut layout, the brown embossed dial also includes a dual time zone mechanism, a day/night indicator, and an analog date counter. It is equipped with a caliber 324 SC FUS, boasting a 45-hour power reserve. If you prefer something that looks a little more traditional, you can also get this Aquanaut Travel Time in a steel case and black strap as well.  Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5627/200A  The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5627/200A is a more contemporary interpretation of the quartz Aquanaut Luce. While it is nothing short of lavish as well, this model offers a more casual and classic vibe. It is presented in a steel case along with a composite bracelet in black. The dial follows the usual Aquanaut layout with Arabic numerals and a date window at 3 o’clock. It also features a magnificent diamond-studded bezel, which makes this timepiece just as luxurious as the Luce. Lastly, it uses a quartz movement that’s powered by a caliber E 23‑250 SC. Price At this point, we all know that Patek Philippe is definitely on the more expensive side. Entry-level Aquanauts are known to fall within the $20,000 USD to $30,000 USD price range while the more recognized and extravagant watches are priced starting from $40,000 USD. It boils down to all sorts of different factors such as the model, materials used, whether it’s new or pre-owned, and more. At the end of the day, however, you should be prepared to pay the price for luxury, as the Aquanaut is definitely a watch that costs a pretty penny. The Aquanaut on Celebrities  Being one of the most prestigious watch brands out there, it is no surprise that the Aquanaut is loved by many influential figures out there. While it may be difficult for regular folks to get their hands on one, celebrities and the elite certainly have it easier. With that said, here are some of your favorite celebrities who have been spotted sporting their own Aquanaut:  Sir Paul McCartney Photo from Esquire UK Sir Paul McCartney is one of the most influential people in the music industry. He has a very successful career to back him up, from The Beatles to his solo endeavors, and it is no wonder why many look up to him as an icon. While music fans are bound to fangirl over him, watch connoisseurs also have much respect for him and his tasteful watch collection. In a feature with Esquire UK, Sir Paul McCartney was photographed wearing a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167A. Apparently, he is often seen wearing this beautiful watch to different occasions, both on and off camera.  Drake  Photo from Instagram Drake is yet another another music legend on this list of Aquanaut patrons. A couple of years ago, someone posted an Instagram photo with Drake where he was wearing a rare Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5968A in all its chronograph glory. It came in a gleaming stainless steel case with a very striking orange strap. The rapper is known for his impressive watch collection so it really is no surprise that he owns a member of the Aquanaut family too. Tom Holland  Photo from Xinhua Last on this list is British actor Tom Holland who is best known for his role as Peter Parker/Spiderman in the Marvel Cinematic Universe. In 2019, he was seen wearing a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167R at a press conference for Spiderman: Far From Home in Seoul, South Korea. Despite being only a year old when the Aquanaut first came out, Tom chose this suave, versatile watch to match his overall style and ensemble.   Final Thoughts  At this point, most of us are aware of just why Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut collection is such a big thing today. Though it didn’t start out as a coveted timepiece, the Swiss brand was able to cultivate this watch line and transform it into the headliner it is now. If you’re thinking about getting one, just remember that the Aquanaut comes with an interesting history, impressive features, and a beautifully distinct design. What more can you ask for in a watch, right?  If this has piqued your interest in Patek Philippe then make sure to check out our article on their iconic Nautilus 5711 model. Photo Credits: Patek Philippe Official Website

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  9. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711: A Guide To One Of The Most Sought-After Luxury Sports Watch Today

    Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711: A Guide To One Of The Most Sought-After Luxury Sports Watch Today

    When talking about the best luxury watch manufacturers of all time, it is almost impossible to leave the name Patek Philippe out of the conversation. Patek Philippe often steals the spotlight from its other close competitors in the field such as Rolex, Longines, Omega, and Audemars Piguet, because of how it always embodies ultimate and traditional Swiss watchmaking practices, all while incorporating innovative touches, in order to create remarkable, stunning pieces that could last for decades. All true watch enthusiasts know that this independent label is all about excellence, quality, and pure craftsmanship, which is why it comes as no surprise that it remains well-celebrated in the industry to the present day. If not for the seriousness with which Patek Philippe takes Haute Horlogerie, or “the high-art of watchmaking”, it would not hold the title of being the only brand in history that was able to sell eight watches for at least $2 million USD each at auctions. This alone says a great deal about the company and its solid reputation not only among connoisseurs but also among the general public. It serves as irrefutable proof that Patek Philippe’s products are extraordinary, with aesthetics that invoke timelessness and sophistication, as well as reliable mechanisms that prize robustness and longevity above all. From creating simple yet exquisite jewelry watches to crafting complicated watches with all sorts of fun features that exceed expectations, Patek Philippe truly knows how to constantly set the bar high. However, what’s really fascinating is that the label also excels in creating distinctive, one-of-a-kind sports watches that scream elegance and perfection—something that only Patek Philippe could ever pull off. One such sports watch is the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, which carries an avant-garde design, along with striking features and a powerful mechanism that makes the watch even more desirable to watch fanatics. In this article, we will discuss the charms of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 and why it deserves a spot in your collection despite being frequently considered an overrated piece due to its extreme popularity. Does it deserve the hype it already boasts? What must-have features does the watch possess that make watch enthusiasts so eager to own one? What makes the Nautilus 5711 so grand and why is it dubbed one of the most coveted pieces from Patek Philippe? These are just some of the questions we will try to explore, and we will give you all the answers you need to help you make the right decision about whether or not to purchase this timepiece. Without further ado, let us find out more about the Nautilus 5711, in particular, its roots, glorious specifications, and outstanding versions which will truly steal your attention. How Patek Philippe Nautilus Came to Life Patek Philippe has been demonstrating its amazing expertise in watchmaking for about 182 years now, making them one of the oldest watchmakers in the world. While its history and background are undeniably superb and incomparable to most other companies, the brand is better known for its unique collections that are truly breathtaking and awe-inspiring. One of these collections is the Patek Philippe Nautilus, which houses chic, classy, and sporty timepieces that stand out easily without even having to try. Unveiled in 1976 as a way to signal the brand’s ventures into the vast world of luxury sports watches, the glamorous range redefines finesse and modernity in sports watches. In addition, the intricacy and fanciness of the Nautilus’s details and parts attest to how the company always strives for rarity and superiority, devoting its efforts to producing each member of the collection with great passion. But how exactly did the Nautilus start capturing the hearts of the public and who is the mastermind behind its iconic birth? The legacy of the Nautilus collection actually began shortly after the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch hit the market in 1972. Not only did it make history as the first-ever stainless steel luxury sports wristwatch in the world, but it also changed the perspective of both the masses and watchmakers when it came to steel watches. Although often regarded as the cheaper alternative to gold and titanium, stainless steel is a durable material that is good at resisting all kinds of corrosion. These anti-allergic properties can even bring health benefits to the wearer, especially when worn. While stainless steel had previously been used in affordable and mid-range timepieces, the creation of the Royal Oak led to the overflowing and trailblazing popularity of stainless steel as a sturdy and dependable material for high-end timepieces as well. Inspired by Audemars Piguet’s bold release of the Royal Oak, Patek Philippe finally decided that it was time for them to join the trend and release their own take on the quintessential luxury sports watch. Sticking to their principles, the label wanted their offering to have a versatile and head-turning design, coupled with a well-crafted and robust mechanism to ensure a smooth-sailing performance. They believed that this was the key to their past success, especially given how critics of that age had become increasingly equally concerned with both form and function in watches. Since the release of their first-ever luxury sports watch would have a role in enhancing their image and reminding people of how the brand executed their craft according to the highest standards whilst still upholding their great traditions, Patek Philippe wanted it to be special and extraordinary. Gerald Genta and His Role to Nautilus’ Iconic Birth Patek Philippe scored a huge win when they managed to unintentionally attract the attention of Gérald Genta, the same jewelry designer who invented the Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet. Genta reportedly came up with the idea of the Nautilus during the 1974 Baselworld Trade Fair, where many watchmakers and jewelers from around the world gathered to display their masterpieces. While eating at a restaurant inside the hotel he was staying at, the artist suddenly came across a group of Patek Philippe employees talking to one another at the opposite end of the hall. This is when he suddenly had a eureka moment, which prompted him to ask for a piece of paper and a pencil from a waiter serving dishes near him. He impressively finished the initial sketch of the Nautilus in just five minutes, whilst observing the movements and gestures of the Patek Philippe workers. Genta’s design was inspired by portholes usually found on huge ships and resulted in the Nautilus possessing a rounded bezel and protruding edges on both left and right sides of the case. The aforementioned candid moment led to the birth of the whole Nautilus line, which has long been considered a game-changing collection for the brand, whose offerings emphasize lavishness and whose methods and aesthetics often revolve around intricate delicacy. Apart from sporting a peculiar case shape, all watches from the Nautilus roster have colorful and appealing dials that would make you drool in complete satisfaction and admiration. Not to mention, they also include many other interesting designs that Gérald Genta is known for, including the bracelet, dial arrangement, and bezel composition. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700 | Photo from @chronovantage2 on Instagram Launched amidst the ongoing quartz crisis, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700-1A is the first member of the iconic collection that continues to make waves to the present day. Appearance-wise, it sports a hard and mesmerizing 42mm octagonal case, along with a medium-sized crown that is protected by crown guards and hands that contain luminous material for greater visibility in dark conditions. Besides the fact that it comes with a thick integrated bracelet that is recognizable even from afar, the dial also features a horizontal line pattern that is pleasing to the eye. All of its indices are numberless and are engraved in baton style, and the small yet impactful signature placed below the 12 o’clock position only adds to the minimalistic aura of the dial. This effect is further compounded by the date display that replaces the 3 o’clock marker, which is so subtle to the point you could almost miss it at first glance. The text inside the said window is legible enough to be seen at a distance and people who like paying attention to small details would really appreciate how the date aperture was incorporated into the whole look of the watch. Making it even more exceptional, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700-1A came with a hefty price tag that was close to the prices of real gold and rose gold timepieces released at the time. In fact, it was even recognized as one of the costliest stainless steel watches in the world. This tactic came as a surprise for true enthusiasts given that the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700-1A was a time-and-date only model. Nevertheless, the elevated price must have been intriguing to watch connoisseurs, as many still wanted to experience its wonders, which has, over the years, led to a continuously growing demand for almost all Nautilus pieces ever produced. Where did Patek Philippe get the name Nautilus? The Patek Philippe Nautilus was named after the submarine used by Captain Nemo in Jules Verne’s 1870 French novel titled 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. The blueprint of all Nautilus timepieces serves as an ode to the original structure of Captain Nemo’s Nautilus submarine, particularly its porthole that has an oval shape. Despite not being a diver’s watch, the Patek Philippe Nautilus has provided water resistance of up to a whopping 120 meters and this is all thanks to the extraordinary construction of the case, particularly its ear-like sides and massive lugs that prevents any moisture from interfering with the watch’s core. Throughout its 45-year run, the Nautilus roster has grown in order to offer a greater variety to potential consumers who have been wanting to give its members a try and who have been curious about the great reviews surrounding all its watches. From only endorsing stainless steel models, the glamorous line now offers other material options such as rose gold and white gold as well as case size variations. Furthermore, some of the watches in the Nautilus collection also come with additional functionalities such as a moon phase display, a power reserve indicator, a chronograph feature, a 60-minute counter, and even a dual time zone display. What’s more is that all of the current Nautilus models now come with upgraded and enhanced in-house movements, stepping away from the automatic caliber 920 made by Jaeger LeCoultre in favor of three of the biggest names in the industry, namely Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and of course, Patek Philippe. The said mechanism, known as the Caliber 28-255 after undergoing various in-house finishing and processes, was used to power the first set of Nautilus models ever produced, including the Ref. 3700. This goes to show how this Swiss company always tries its best to innovate its products, while still practicing the traditional norms the brand has developed since its establishment. Some may say that the Patek Philippe Grand Complications or the Patek Philippe Aquanaut are more worth the money and are more attractive and reliable timepieces, but no one can deny that the Nautilus is unrivaled when it comes to uniqueness and value. Amidst the numerous beloved iterations of the Nautilus collection, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 remains a highly popular piece, which we will discuss and dissect further in this article. In fact, it is arguably the most coveted timepiece ever produced by any manufacturer in the entire history of watches. Aside from bearing a masculine and commanding appearance, this timepiece has distinct charms that make it the perfect epitome of a modern classic. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711: The Perfect Daily Wristwatch Perhaps the most famous Nautilus model out there, the Patek Philippe 5711 is one of the jaw-dropping upgrades to the original Nautilus 3700 released by the brand back in the early 1970s. The Patek Philippe 5711 was introduced to the public for the very first time in 2006 in celebration of the Nautilus collection’s 30th-year anniversary and is considered by many lovers to be the most sought-after contemporary luxury watch. This is one big reason why this watch is frequently the center of horological talks and debates and why it comes with a relatively high price tag. Certain rumors even claim that it can take up to 8 to 10 years for an individual to finally own a 5711 piece with the correct retail price. Some people, especially the impatient ones and those that do not stick with any specific budget when it comes to their collections, resort to buying from legitimate secondhand markets and trusted online websites, willing to pay more than the original cost. Now that the whole 5711 series is nearing the end of its production, expect all of its models to become harder to acquire as prices will continue to soar, given how Patek Philippe only releases a limited number of Nautilus pieces each year. Aside from the fact that the Nautilus 5711 demonstrates what refined and ultramodern watchmaking is about, it also attests to the creativity, mastery, and rigor Patek Philippe demonstrates when conceptualizing and creating their memorable pieces. Just by looking at the said second-generation Nautilus model, you will recognize that there is beauty in simplicity and why watches with little to no ornamentations often catch the attention of many, just by virtue of their structure and elegant appeal. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-010 | Photo from @watchourluxembourg on Instagram Inspired by its original predecessor, the Nautilus 3700, which is often the star of many auctions given its rich background and its breathtaking attributes, the Nautilus 5711 has a handsome and prepossessing aura, coupled with a striking design that all men from different walks of life would surely appreciate. Even young and professional women could easily rock this piece if they wish to due to its versatile and classic vibe. Apart from relying on a high-powered mechanism, the watch also comes with a relatively wide case—slightly bigger than the exterior of the 3700—that easily fits any wrist type whether slim or stout. Not to mention, it is also made out of premium and exquisite materials that guarantee its fantastic serviceability and long life span. It is no wonder why many collectors and watch lovers consider any 5711 models as valuable investment pieces, which can accompany them to endless occasions for decades to come. Although often regarded as a basic timepiece without many bells and whistles, the Nautilus 5711 is the best choice available if you want a casual sports watch that could double as a dress watch you can bring to any formal gatherings. Created to deviate from typical concepts, it does not come with any detailed or complicated rotating bezels but it still comes with an impressive water resistance level that is close to the ratings true diving pieces have. Others even compare it to the Zenith Defy Titanium and the Tudor Black Bay 41, but nothing can beat how the Nautilus 5711 performs, how it delivers great results, and how it elevates the style and outfit of any wearer in an instant. Regardless of its price, it is a truly-must have watch for anyone who is looking for a piece they could proudly parade around. Up Close With The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 Patek Philippe first announced a cease in the production of its flagship three-hand Patek Philippe Nautilus in 5711/1A-010 steel with blue dial variation in early 2021. Since then, many connoisseurs have been trying their luck in securing their very own piece before resellers take advantage of this watch’s rarity and legacy. The sudden news of the halt in manufacturing took the watch world by surprise given that the legendary model is still considered a vital part of the brand’s inspiring and rich heritage. There is still no unified reason why the aforementioned watch is extremely popular but a lot of true enthusiasts consider it as a prized possession because of its size, shape, and overall elegant construction that no other brands could ever imitate. Often the center of attraction, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A-010 closely resembles the brand’s first-ever luxury sports watch, especially in terms of its exterior. This is probably the reason why people are dying to get ahold of this timepiece, as it gives them the chance to own a rare gem but in a much more modernized version. While a lot of people have resigned themselves to the discontinuation announcement, a lot of watch lovers have been praying for the release of more versions of the Nautilus 5711 before it actually goes off the market at the end of this year. Much to their delight, Patek Philippe released a new member of the 5711/1A gang in April 2021 as part of the final stretch of the range. Called the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014, the watch also pays homage to the original Nautilus time-and-date only watch, but with an olive green dial. If you have been planning to get yourself one, below are the important details and a brief review regarding the 5711/1A-014 you should take note of. Case material: Stainless SteelCase dimension: 40mmMovement: Mechanical in-house, Automatic Calibre 26-330 S CPower reserve: Minimum – 35 hours; Maximum – 45 hoursWater resistance: 120 metersCase As mentioned above, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014 boasts a case size of 40mm, which is the standard for the modern Nautilus watches, including its direct predecessor, the 5711/1A-010. Most people consider this a fairly large watch, given its wide and stout appearance. Its origins may have also played a significant role in such a perception since the Ref. 3700/1 was commonly known as the “Jumbo” back in the day due to its bigger size. However, the Nautilus 5711/1A-014 still feels extremely comfortable when worn on the wrist despite its size. Not to mention, it is convenient to wear while going about your daily tasks due to its well-balanced measurements and equal proportions. When it comes to height, this model measures about 8.3mm, giving the watch a sleek look and a high-tech feel. This also allows you to easily slip the gorgeous timepiece under your dress shirt’s cuffs. A glance at the watch might give you the illusion that it is quite thick and short due to its bulky top ring, but you will be surprised to know that the Patek Philippe Nautilus watch in question is actually thin, especially from the sides. While it does not necessarily mean that it is lightweight, the slenderness of this timepiece provides a beautiful balance to its overall pristine look, making it a notable and worthy purchase. Even without the presence of any fancy prints or patterns, the cleanness of the case, along with its extremely well-brushed satin finish, makes it more enticing to own. When it comes to the caseback, Patek Philippe does not fail to demonstrate what they are best at, and that is letting the wearers admire how the movement works at any time of the day. Protected by a sapphire crystal that looks clear even from afar, the caseback features six square shapes that serve as the main protection for the movement. In fact, you would not immediately notice the presence of the sapphire crystal unless you inspect the case back closely. This just means that Patek Philippe wants every customer to have an unparalleled timekeeping experience. Putting emphasis on the mechanism, the caseback is also placed in a unique and slightly bulging manner, which also gives the movement more definition. In terms of durability, you can already leave your worries behind as the majority of Patek Philippe Nautilus watches are made from strong and well-built stainless steel. Boasting great characteristics, this metal can withstand a few scratches, dents, and impacts, which is great for people who have fast-paced lifestyles which revolve around extreme activities. Even if you encounter accidental bumps during your commutes, with a stainless steel watch like the 5711/1A-014 as your companion, it is sure to perform well and still look brand-new despite any impacts. While it does not have the same lightweight attributes as titanium, stainless steel ensures that the inner portions of the watch, where the movement is located, are protected and secure from any kinds of moisture, which could otherwise lead to major rust and corrosion. Bezel, Water Resistance and Crown The minimalistic crown of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 certainly deserves some recognition. Placed in a screw-down manner, it comes with the signature emblem of the brand, which is simple and lovely at the same time. Taking the shape of an old stylized cross, the logo gives off an atmosphere of class and elegance and is the perfect symbol of Patek Philippe’s excellence. If you want to adjust the time, you can just simply pull the crown outwards and turn it in the correct direction. The vertical-teeth edges of the crown ensure a nice and easy grip so that you would not have a hard time changing the time configurations. Since it is also protected by a crown guard with shiny rounded edges, rest assured that the crown will stay at its original position at all times and is unlikely to sustain any damage even if it’s bumped around a little. The newest Patek Philippe 5711 watch also comes with a water resistance rating of 120 meters. This may not be considered a big deal since all Aquanaut models and other watches from the Nautilus collection boast the same capacities. However, it is still an achievement compared to other sports and dress watches in the market. Bear in mind that Patek Philippe Nautilus timepieces are not tool watches. They are only meant to be elegant sports watches so this degree of water resistance is already quite impressive. While you cannot bring the Nautilus 5711/1A-0014 to any extreme water sports activities such as snorkeling or deep-sea diving, it is still well-equipped for your dips in the pool. What’s more, you can also use it while bathing or while swimming in a pool for exercise. All in all, this precious watch will stay high-functioning even when in contact with water, as long as you exercise sufficient precautions and do not take this watch beyond a depth of 120 meters. The bezel of the Patek Philippe Nautilus watch in the 5711/1A-014 variation is also worthy of attention. The octagon-shaped bezel is unrivaled in its minimalism. The bezel is composed of eight thin and refined sharpened edges, a design so unusual that it immediately became a major selling point for all 5711 models ever made. In addition, it allows connoisseurs to easily distinguish the Nautilus lineup from other pieces designed by Gérald Genta for other brands like Rolex and Audemars Piguet. The sapphire crystal contained within the bezel serves as excellent protection for the dial and has a more rounded shape, which makes this 5711/1A-014 model look a little softer and more feminine, thus appealing to many women too. It also distinguishes the Nautilus range from other members of the extensive Patek Philippe catalog. Matching the overall theme of the timepiece, the bezel, along with the full and wide lugs with curved sides, possess the same natural silver hue that gives off a feeling of clean professionalism under any sort of lighting conditions. Dial This walkthrough will not be complete if we will not discuss the dial, which is the highlight of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014. The style of the dial strongly resembles that of its forerunner, the 5711/1A-010. This version’s dial comes in a pretty olive green color. It is subtle and enrapturing, to the point that you could stare at the dial all day without feeling too overwhelmed or intimidated. Not to mention, its alluring sunburst finish and rugged texture of horizontal lines make the whole timepiece reminiscent of old-school watches we can find in vintage stores and online markets. In terms of its features, the dial comes with gold-applied hour-markers that take the shape of batons, all of which are equipped with a luminous coating so there is good visibility even during conditions where there is little to no light available. All of the indices bear the same silver tone as the case, bracelet, lugs, and crown for a more unified and cohesive look. The 12 o’clock position adds a little variety to the dial, as it is marked with two baton-shaped indices for swifter distinction. Both the hour and minute hands of the dial are silver and baton-styled like the indices, except they come with rounded edges that complement the whole aesthetic of the watch. The only hand marker that is different is the sweeping seconds hand, which takes the form of a simple elongated stick that stretches out towards the very end of the dial. Sticking to the signature functionalities of the first-ever Nautilus watch, the 5711/1A-014 also comes with a date display that replaces the 3 o’clock marker. Indeed, this watch brings only the essential functions a wearer would need in every situation. You will also see minute white-colored dots surrounding the dial’s external edges, which can serve as a guide in telling the time more accurately. Patek Philippe really did a great job in keeping the watch’s face as minimalistic and uncluttered as possible, allowing spectators to admire the construction and concept behind its design without being too distracted by the watch’s functions. The inclusion of a signature with no grandiose font style or vibrant color below the 12 o’clock indices makes the new Nautilus watch even more trendy. To conclude, everything about the dial of the 5711/1A-014 is quite similar to its predecessor. It is an upgraded version of the Nautilus that still maintains the classic designs that made the Nautilus line popular, to begin with. Indeed, the 5711/1A-014 proves to be a top-tier timepiece that will always provide you the confidence and the opportunity to shine in any room you are in. Movement Since the movement of the Patek Philippe Nautilus watch in Ref. 5711/1A-014 is made in-house, you can expect that its performance will always be top-notch. Specifically, the Patek Philippe 5711/1A-014 relies on an automatic movement called the Caliber 26-330 S C, which is a modified version of the Caliber 324 S C that powers all the existing 5711/1A-010 models in the world. Aside from boasting a power reserve of up to 45 hours, the 31-jewel and 212-component movement also beat at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (“vph”). It also has a hacking seconds function that allows you to adjust the time more accurately. The movement is completed with an engraving of the brand’s logo that gives off a very exclusive feel. With this movement, expect this quality timepiece to last you for the succeeding generations to come. Bracelet Just like its case, the Patek Philippe 5711/1A-014’s bracelet is made from stainless steel, with central thick links that ensure it is a nice fit on any wrist. Adding to that, it also has a double folding clasp, adorned with the same logo you will see in the movement and crown. This is much better than the clasp used in the 3700 variant since this clasp is a lot more secure and ensures that the watch would not fall from your wrist by accident. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 Pros and Cons Pros It comes from a respected brand. Need we say more? Patek Philippe has acquired a great deal of recognition over the past few decades and it is all well-deserved, given the attention to detail and supreme level of workmanship they put into every piece they release. In fact, famed royalty, scientists, and artists among others are all part of their amazing clientele history and they certainly would not buy Patek Philippe products if they weren’t of the highest quality and class, right? If you’re the type of person who has high standards when it comes to your timepieces and cares about the brand’s reputation and values, you do not have to worry because Patek Philippe will surely exceed your expectations. By owning a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 watch, you are doing yourself a favor, as it is an incredible timepiece you could wear for the rest of your life. It is a great investment piece. Considering how their prices keep on increasing over the last decade due to consistently high demand, any Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 watch would have a great resale value. If you ever come across an opportunity to own such a three-hand piece with a blue dial, do not ever let it go. This is especially if it comes with a reasonable price, since this watch will surely be harder to find in the next few years due to the line’s imminent discontinuation. Cons It is hard to acquire. We are not overreacting when we say that it could really take years for you to get your own Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 watch from an authorized dealer. In fact, it is almost impossible now to get your hands on the newest model with the olive green dial, given how it is only produced in limited pieces. With the Nautilus 5711 line already coming to an end, we are also very unlikely to see restocks. You can always opt to buy from trusted resellers though but expect it to come at a whopping price that is two or three times higher than its original selling cost. Price Range of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 As of right now, a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 Ref. 5711/1A-014 goes for a retail price of around $36,500 USD. This may be slightly higher if you go for pieces coming from authorized resellers in secondhand markets. In fact, many secondhand resellers sell a good quality Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 for around $100,000 USD. Final Notes Elegant, stylish, and compelling. These are the three best terms that describe the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, especially the 5711/1A-014 variation. While many are still skeptical about buying it because of its gigantic price tag, there is no denying that is one of the best watches out there, offering you everything you could need for an everyday timepiece. There is not much to complain about it too because its features and design are striking and versatile enough to match any style and to make you stand out among the crowd. Now that the Nautilus 5711 series is coming to an end, it will be quite interesting to see how Patek Philippe will utilize their creativity in order to create a succeeding model that could also pass as a heritage piece in the future. Given how the brand likes mixing traditional elements with modern concepts, it will not be surprising if they release yet another series that goes beyond the norm. Nonetheless, nothing can change the fact that the Patek Philippe 5711 will always remain as a true icon in the watch realm. Interested in knowing more about the brand Patek Philippe as well as its other offerings? Make sure to check out our articles on the Holy Trinity of Watchmakers as well as 10 Luxury Wall Clocks To Upgrade Your Home or Office. Photos from Patek Philippe’s website unless stated otherwise Featured image from Patek Philippe

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  10. IWC Mark XVIII: A Guide To The Exquisite Modern Pilot Watch

    IWC Mark XVIII: A Guide To The Exquisite Modern Pilot Watch

    Known for being one of the top names in the Swiss watchmaking industry today, IWC has been creating timeless, streamlined, and fully functional pieces for both men and women. These products are not only made with a passion for Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship but also with utmost dedication to producing straightforward yet distinct and well-thought-out designs. This is why many genuine watch aficionados and even casual wearers continue to patronize the label. IWC’s line-up of watches may be too simple for some in terms of appearance and color choices, but their classic aesthetics are undeniably cool and striking. However, what stands out the most among IWC’s offerings is its premier and popular collections of pilot watches, which exhibit a different level of sophistication as well as amazing features.  One of which is the IWC Mark XVIII. Considered a new addition to the Mark series and a direct successor of the iconic IWC Mark XVII, the IWC Mark XVIII carries a cutting-edge design coupled with ultramodern features that effortlessly make it a quintessential pilot watch of today. Let’s take a closer look at this top-tier timepiece, which continuously raises the reputation of IWC among other luxury watch brands. How does it differ from the previous IWC Mark watches? What makes it so special among the other aviation watches released by the brand? More specifically, let’s find out why it deserves to be included in your must-have list. The IWC Mark Pilot Watches Through The Years With the growing trend for aviation watches in the 1930s, IWC also developed a desire to create their own take for the said timepieces to help improve the lives and work of pilots. The brand wanted their very first pilot watch release to not only withstand any kind of extreme threats such as high and low temperatures ranging from -40 degrees Celsius to 40 degrees Celsius and extreme light conditions but also provide a distinct touch to any style. This is why the IWC Special Pilot’s Watch, also known as the “Spezialuhr für Flieger” and “Mark IX”, which was released in 1936, came with a tough and shatterproof crystal as well as an antimagnetic escapement that thoroughly protects the watch’s movement, called the Caliber 83. Aside from having a rotating bezel that comes with an arrowhead indicator which pilots can use to take note of various periods times especially when the plane is about to take off, the watch also features large and luminous hour-markers and hands that provide legibility no matter what time of the day it is. Not to mention, its color scheme is on the neutral side, which makes it not too overwhelming to wear and carry around. IWC Mark X A few years later, IWC then released an enhanced and much more conventional version of their classic pilot watch, reserved only for military use. Called the IWC Mark X, this model was part of the British Armed Forces’ official military watch line-up, which they later supplied to their troop members. The pilot watches included in the said list, which was known today among collectors as the “Dirty Dozen”, carry various specifications required by the British Ministry of Defense. These features have aided the army in fulfilling their duties for their country. Together with the watches produced by other big names in the industry at that time such as Omega, Buren, Eterna, Cyma, Longines, and Jaeger Le Coultre, the IWC Mark X started accompanying the missions and voyage of British military members in 1944. The Mark X pretty much had similar characteristics as the Mark IX. Both had humongous indexes and clearly visible texts and hands. The case is also huge enough to fit all types of wrists, whether slender or wide. However, there are still some modifications that significantly improved how the watch performs in general. Some of them are not that noticeable unless inspected closely or unless you open the watch and see the core. Other than the fact that the 35mm watch has a tough Faraday cage that protects the mechanism from any kind of magnetism, the watch is also equipped with the Caliber 83 15 movement that brings utmost precision and longevity. The movement exactly runs at 18,000 vibrations per hour (“vph”), which is quite a good number for watches released during the same era.  If the troops needed to plunge into the water for their expeditions, they did not have to worry as the watch’s exterior is protected by a strong and hard ring, which also has waterproofing attributes — thus, the birth of the markings that say “W.W.W.” which stands for Watch, Wrist and Waterproof. Amidst all these, what sets this watch apart from the other watches included in the “Dirty Dozens” is its extraordinary snap-on caseback. While it makes the timepiece more susceptible to moisture risks, the caseback is still pleasing and appealing to look at. IWC made sure to even secure it by using a lead seal to protect the whole watch. Indeed, this is the vintage model you should look out for if you want something that does not only offers amazing functionalities but also remind you of a very important period in our world’s history. IWC Mark XI The IWC Mark XI or simply the Mark 11 Pilot Watch is one of the most sought-after and prized timepieces ever released by the brand. First launched in 1949, it marked the beginning of IWC’s popularity in terms of creating legendary aviator’s watches that are not only meant for professional pursuits but also while conducting your daily commitments and endeavors. Embodying sophistication in all aspects, the watch comes with a water-resistance and anti-magnetism capability as well as a sleek dial, with luminous shapes at the end of the 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock, and 12 o’clock positions. Not to mention, the watch’s hands are also a mixture of baton shape and sword shape, which makes it easier for anyone to identify the respective placements dedicated for the hour and the minute. The signature is also not too big or small, which prevents wearers from experiencing major distractions. Moreover, the dial is in a cool black color, which blends well with the silver hue of the case. To guard the watch against extreme pressures, it also comes with a screwed top ring, along with luminous hands that gleam effectively especially during dark conditions. Created specifically for the Royal Air Force (RAF), the Mark XI is the epitome of a true IWC Pilot watch for it boasts the much-needed attributes that an aviator will need. While the aforementioned models, namely the Mark IX and the Mark X, boast great features that most pilot watches have and that you never simply see in other vintage models we see lurking around the secondhand markets today, they are not considered Pilot watches since they specifically accompanied the British army for their tasks. What’s more, the Mark X watches do not come with any anti-magnetism capacities that a genuine aviators watch should have. Despite the confusion, the Mark IX, Mark X, and of course, the Mark XI became extremely well-loved by all watch connoisseurs given how neat and readable their dials are. The color combinations they came with also easily fit most men’s tastes. IWC Mark XII The IWC Mark XI watch maintained a healthy and solid fan base for around four decades. It is not so surprising to see given how trailblazing and stunning it is, from its pristine exterior parts and luscious strap down to its firm caseback and trustworthy movement. In fact, it did not need any tweaks at all, both major and minor, proving that the amount of hard work IWC poured into making such an incredible model was all worth it. However, as the demands for an upgrade of the iconic timepiece continued growing, IWC finally made a decision to release a new jaw-dropping version in 1993, which now comes with an automatic mechanism.  Called the IWC Mark XII, this 36mm model looks identical to its direct predecessor, with few minor upgrades on the side. The unacquainted would surely have a slightly difficult time telling them apart. One of the differences from the IWC Mark XI that you will instantly notice is that it comes with a different movement, thus the appearance of the “Automatic” text on the bottom part of the watch’s dial, just above the 6 o’clock position. Aside from this, the luminous indicators beside the 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock, and 12 o’clock marks are slightly faded, but they do not affect the overall appeal of the timepiece at all. Lastly, the watch also comes with a date indication that seamlessly replaced the 3 o’clock position, which is quite convenient if you like to be updated all the time and if you like keeping things organized. IWC Mark XV The IWC Mark XV watch marked the beginning of the brand’s journey and relationship with the general public. Six years after the Mark XII was introduced, the Mark XV started gracing the retail stores with much sophistication and gracefulness. Rather than embodying a utilitarian vibe, the watch had a much simpler concept that was easier to comprehend and navigate. This is pretty much the reason why many enthusiasts consider the Mark XV as a piece that is more suited for regular civilians, despite being included in the brand’s aviation and military watch lineup. Apart from boasting a bigger case size of 38mm, this time-and-date only timepiece also utilized an automatic in-house 21-jewel Caliber 37524 movement based on ETA 2892-A2 rather than a 36-jewel mechanism produced by another luxury company, Jaeger Le Coultre, which you can see in IWC Mark XV’s predecessor. It also has a date window, sitting closely beside the 3 o’clock position. Proudly showing the world the brand’s magnificent creation, the signature is also written in a huge font that creates a well-balanced look for the whole dial. IWC Mark XVI  Continuing their legacy and expressing their desire to keep up with the fast-paced world, IWC dedicated itself to putting out more watches under the Mark series. The brand’s vision is to make them look more cohesive yet unique to the eyes of many, with little to no modifications included. To fit the taste of modern men, the succeeding timepieces are not only characterized by neater and chicer dials but also bigger case sizes. Signaling the new century ahead, the company released the very first contemporary version of their iconic aviator and navigator timepieces in 2006. Called the Mark XVI, the 39mm timepiece endorsed variety by replacing the 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock, and 12 o’clock positions with baton-style and triangle indicators as well as a date display, while also giving wearers additional strap options like leather ones. The hands also give a direct ode to the brand’s classic Big Pilot watch, given that they look longer to match the diameter of the dial. In terms of power, the Mark XVI utilizes an in-house movement known as the IWC 30110, which is also based on the ETA 2892-A2. Despite all these big changes, the watch still demonstrates amazing anti-magnetic resistance as well as the ability to battle strong water pressures. Unable to fully accept the changes brought by modern times, IWC loyalists were against the whole idea of the Mark series’ major revamp, which is why the brand was left with no choice but to halt the Mark XVI’s production in 2012. IWC Mark XVII IWC Mark XVII | Photo @sjpulvirent on InstagramEvery painful ending leads to new beginnings, as they say, and true enough, IWC was able to quickly rise from the heavy criticisms by releasing the IWC Mark XVII watch in 2012. As many brands are becoming more fearless when it comes to themes and designs during that time, IWC also plunged into the trend by coming up with a very experimental look for the said timepiece. With a case size of 41mm and a height of 10.8mm, the Mark XVII is still considered the biggest watch from the series. Swaying away from usual layouts, you will also see a medium-sized vertical date display on the right side of the timepiece, with a bright red pointer that serves as its focal point. Adding a more glamorous feel, it also comes with a stainless steel bracelet with a clicking adjustment clasp. Just like its close predecessor, it relies on the Caliber 30110, which has a power reserve of up to 42 hours. IWC Mark XVIII: The Handsome Tool Watch That Breaks Barriers IWC Mark XVIII Edition “Le Petit Prince” | Photo from Nathan Ashfield on FlickrThe IWC Mark XVIII, also known as the Mark XVIII and the Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII, is considered the latest update to the iconic and timeless Mark series that solidified the brand’s reputation as a leader and expert in manufacturing trustworthy aviator watches. Launched in 2016, the watch may not be one of the newest offerings by the brand, but it is undeniably among the well-loved and celebrated pieces ever released by IWC throughout its entire history — all because of the simplicity and directness it brings to the table. Although often mentioned in a lot of horological conversations and watch forums because of the sudden reversal in terms of its general updates from the face composition, additional features such as the date display as well as case size, the Mark XVIII undeniably bears a high level of prestige, as well as enticing charms similar to what general vintage IWC watches exhibit. This makes it a great collector’s item for any watch lover who constantly seeks to put thrill into their collection. Taking inspiration from one of its original forerunners called the Mark XI or simply Mark 11, which also takes the lead in many star-studded auctions due to its historic and trailblazing attributes, the IWC Mark XVIII  is exquisite in all aspects. However, this pilot watch can also pass as an everyday dress watch despite the athletic and commanding feel it gives off from time to time. Apart from carrying close resemblance to its predecessors, which attest to how IWC likes keeping things in a consistent manner, the timepiece also carries reliable and strong components, further making it a valuable watch you could even pass down to the succeeding generations. Anatomy of the IWC Mark XVIII Among the most coveted models from the diverse IWC Mark XVIII line is the IW327009 version. It may look quite plain on the outside but it will surely change your perspective about tool watches once you get to know it from a deeper perspective. If you are currently in the process of deciding whether you should finally give in to the temptation and purchase the watch, here are specifications and other important details you should familiarize yourself with. The following information will convince you that it is an incredible piece to own and that it is worthy of gracing your wrist.   Case material: Stainless Steel Case dimension: 40mm Movement: Mechanical, Automatic Power reserve: 42 hours Water resistance: 60m Case With just one look at the stunning case of the IWC Pilot Mark XVIII Ref. IW327009, you will instantly know why it is slowly becoming a hot item these days despite being released a few years ago. Unlike its direct predecessors, this one sports a case size of 40mm, which is quite smaller than the Mark XVIII but slightly bigger than the timepiece that inspired the whole Mark series, the Mark XI. The dimensions are not too large or too small, but rather just enough to fit any wrist. Many were expecting that IWC will release the follow-up to their 2012 model with a humongous case size based on the trend it implements. However, the brand demonstrated the unexpected with the Mark XVIII. Despite this, the case stands out not because it has ornamentations or patterns but because it is straightforward yet attractive from every angle. Due to the case’s wide arrangement, any consumer would find the watch comfortable and convenient to wear. Not to mention, the proportioned structure also allows potential wearers to fully admire the beauty of its smooth dial. Slipping the watch under your shirt’s cuff would not be a problem either, given how this specific Mark XVIII model only measures up to 11mm in height and 50mm in terms of lug-to-lug size. When it comes to durability, you do not have to worry as well since this understated timepiece is made with a sturdy and low-maintenance stainless steel material. Aside from the fact that it can handle a few bumps and slight impacts, it also ensures that the core and other inner parts of the watch are protected from all kinds of moisture and corrosion threats. While the bezel does not offer any kind of special characteristics like a tachymeter scale or diamond embellishments, it still looks pristine because of its beautiful satin finish. Giving contrast to the rest of the watch, the top ring is in a silver hue, giving off an industrial appeal. Matching its aesthetics, the lugs are also in the same color, with a defined yet curvy structure that provides more edge to the overall appearance of the timepiece. Crown, Caseback, Crystal, and Water Resistance There are many good things worth noting and emphasizing about the IWC Mark XVIII Ref. IW327009. Even its smallest parts such as the crowns and crystal bear great significance. Apart from bearing an emblem that showcases the logo of the brand, the crown of the screwed-down, which makes sure that it remains with a water resistance of up to 60 meters or 197 feet. This is not a bad specification at all considering that you can still bring it to your trips to the pool as well as casual snorkeling activities. Despite not having any crown guards at all, the crown still looks great due to its oversized figure as well as fluted patterns on the sides. When it comes to the caseback, the watch definitely proved its creativity by placing a grand logo in an airplane shape in the middle, symbolizing that the Mark XVIII is part of IWC’s iconic lineup of pilot watches. Placed against the same polished stainless steel material just like what you will see in the front, a text that says “International Watch Co. / Pilot’s Watch” surrounds the emblem neatly, along with other vital information, such as water resistance and serial number. For those who are fond of seeing the watch’s movement from time to time, you might need to note that this model does not give a glimpse of the mechanisms at all. Despite this, IWC attests that the caseback will protect the whole watch from dust, rust, water, and any kind of threats that might harm its performance. Plus, being an aviator’s watch, the Mark XVIII is equipped with a soft-iron inner case, which thoroughly prevents it from coming in contact with strong magnetic fields that could potentially affect its accuracy. Almost all other luxury brands in the market utilize the infamous sapphire crystal for their watches, but IWC still incorporated the said component into their creation since it offers a much more reliable level of strength compared to its competitors. Aside from keeping the piece secured from abrupt changes in atmospheric pressures, sapphire crystal rarely gets affected by scratches and impacts unless they are major ones. Moreover, the material provides convenience to any wearer since its appearance is always clean and smooth, ensuring that you will be able to read the time precisely anytime, anywhere. These are enough reasons to explain why watches made with sapphire crystal— such as the Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII — are quite hefty on the pocket. At the end of the day, the brand just wants the best for their loyal and potential customers, while also giving them more than what they paid for. Dial Nothing much has changed in terms of the dial of the IWC Mark XVIII watch, when put beside the Mark XI and the Mark XVIII, which are its original blueprint and forerunner, respectively. All of them want nothing but to bring modesty, legibility, and clearness, which is why the unacquainted would always get confused about how these supreme watches differ from one another. However, by doing lots of research and reading, you will know that Mark XVIII is a remarkable timepiece on its own, with modern technologies serving as its backbone. Crafted to organize the perspective of the user, the dial of the IWC Mark XVIII is only equipped with the essential functions you will be needing on a daily basis. In the case of pilots, the dial only has features that are necessary for doing their jobs appropriately. One of these useful functionalities is a date window peeking at the 3 o’clock position. Despite causing major commotions in watch forums due to its peculiar arrangement, the date display still does its job well mainly because the texts you will see on its surface are in a crisp white color, which endorses good readability. Since the watch’s dial is slightly textured and is coated with a deep black color, featuring white-toned hands and Arabic-style hour-markers that complement the overall neat look, anyone can easily determine the time without feeling overwhelmed at all. Specifically, both hour and minute pointers are in Flieger-style, which you typically see in the IWC Big Pilot collection as well as other contemporary members of the Mark series, while the seconds hand is elongated enough to promote greater legibility. To make the watch look more simple, the brand added the 6 and 9 numerals back to the dial— which disappeared in the Mark XVII watch — with the exception of the 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock mark that still embody the same triangle and date display layout, which also serve as a way to pay homage to historic IWC watches produced by the brand in the past. What’s more, these huge markings, along with the hour and minute hands, are coated with luminous elements, powered by the SuperLuminova technology for better visibility, especially when faced with dim light conditions. IWC could have done a better job in putting lume to all of the hour-markers, but the watch is still exceptional even for the years to come. All in all, the arrangement of all elements found in the background is symmetrical and well-categorized, which makes room for more focus and fewer distractions when it comes to the timekeeping process. Movement Hailing from a renowned brand, you can only expect that the IWC Pilot Mark XVIII Ref. IW327009 will deliver only the best service especially when it comes to its movement. This is why IWC made the 163-component Caliber IWC 35111 automatic movement as the said timepiece’s source of power. This mechanism takes after the Sellita SW300-1 movement, which boasts a power reserve of up to 48 hours. Not to mention, it also has 25 jewels and runs at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour or 4.0 hertz. Since the IWC 35111 movement is somehow thin, you would not be able to see any bulging shape on the back of the watch. Emphasizing its great capacities, it also makes the movement of the central seconds hand swift and on point. Price of the IWC Mark XVIII Despite being the latest addition to the Mark series, the IWC Mark XVIII watch is more reasonably priced than its direct predecessor. This is understandable though since IWC removed a lot of features from the Mark XVII to create the simpler yet cooler Mark 18 timepiece. With a typical price tag of around $4,000 USD to $5,000 USD, you will surely get not only the best pilot watch aesthetics but also powerful mechanisms that you deserve. Despite the heavy competition between other aviator watches such as those being offered by Zenith and Breitling, it is no doubt that purchasing IWC Mark XVIII is something you would not regret doing. Should you get an IWC Mark XVIII?  If you’re a fan of pilot watches in general or you tend to go for the functionalities being offered by the said timepieces, the IWC Mark XVIII is definitely the way to go. It is a good entry point to the diverse realm of IWC Pilot watches and it would also give you an idea about how dedicated IWC is in its craft and workmanship in general. Aside from this, the piece in question is a great conversation starter given its history, despite being a time-and-date-only watch. Not to mention, this watch is one of the most talked-about IWC watches in horological discussions and online forums. Final Thoughts While many assume that tool watches, specifically aviator timepieces are only meant for professionals, the IWC Mark XVII watch proves otherwise. This timepiece is the perfect example of a modern tool watch, which you can effortlessly rock at all times no matter what situation or occasion. Its stunning appearance, coupled with its amazing and cutting-edge features makes it a watch worth getting. Known as one of the groundbreaking pilot watch inventions ever unveiled by the brand, the timepiece simply demonstrates the true purpose of aviator watches and why we still need them despite the growing demands for more innovative — perhaps digitalized — watches. If you have been wanting to anchor your collection with a tool watch that you can use and abuse in the coming years, then you should definitely check out the IWC XVIII. Who knows? It might even be considered as an iconic watch in the future just like its older siblings. Interested in knowing more about IWC as well as its other fantastic offerings? Check out our reviews on the IWC Big Pilot and IWC Portofino.  Featured image from IWC’s website Other photos from IWC unless stated otherwise                      

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  11. Tudor Black Bay 41: A Guide To The Versatile Time-Only Watch

    Tudor Black Bay 41: A Guide To The Versatile Time-Only Watch

    Since its inception, Tudor has always been proving its determination and passion for excellence and premium craftsmanship by creating and producing high-quality and reliable watches. Aside from the fact that its products are built to last for decades and are made with top-notch materials and parts, all of them are also reasonably priced, given how the brand wants everyone from various walks of life to have access to their unique releases. Although often being linked to Rolex due to their connection and history together, the company has a different and enticing charm. Tudor’s line-up of watches is not only extensive and diverse but also impressive and classic. In fact, most pieces could instantly find their way to every aficionado and even casual wearer’s list of must-have watches to look out for. One of the timepieces that attest to the brand’s desire to make a name for itself is the Tudor Black Bay 41. But what exactly makes this watch special and exceptional? Hailing from the most popular collection of the company, the Tudor Black Bay, the Black Bay 41 effortlessly boasts a whole new level of sophistication and versatility, making it the perfect sports or field watch you could repeatedly wear all year round. Even though it is a time-only watch, it also has the capacity to steal everyone’s attention, all thanks to its irresistible appeal. With that being said, let us find out more about the Tudor Black Bay 41, particularly its roots, its features, and its compositions that will make a lot of you swoon and drool out of awe and admiration. A Quick Look at Tudor’s Interesting History Tudor’s roots can be traced back to 1926 when a Swiss watchmaking house called Veuve de Philippe Hüther Company registered the company’s trademark on behalf of Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf. This allowed Wilsdorf to obtain the rights to Tudor and use the name for business purposes, particularly in terms of watch manufacturing. Furthermore, it also led to the brand’s successful establishment in Geneva, Switzerland, a place where horology abundantly and significantly thrives. One of the first few pieces the label released sport a polished and rectangular-shaped case with the iconic Tudor signature on the dial. Meanwhile, few others have Rolex’s name, given how both brands come from the same mind. This is why a lot of collectors encounter confusion and difficulties when faced with the said models from the aforementioned era. A few years later, Wilsdorf took over the management and eventually owned the Tudor brand. From then on, the company focused on releasing pieces with exquisite functionalities and designs. That same period was when watches with a rose logo appeared on the markets. Symbolizing beauty and regality, the said image pertains to the invincible union of strength the models boast. After a decade, in 1946, Wilsdorf realized that it is time for the company to grow further and decided to expand the reach of the brand to a wider audience. He went on and established Montres TUDOR SA, whose primary goal is to create and manufacture timepieces both for men and women that are affordable and can fit any budget while boasting similar selected attributes and level of reliability that Rolex watches have. This is why there a lot of Tudor advertisements during the said period that show a hint of Rolex’s identity and designs. A lot of watch connoisseurs and casual wearers also like to refer to Tudor timepieces as cheaper alternatives to the expensive and glorified Rolex timepieces, given how both of them almost somehow look the same, with signatures, materials, and few features as only exceptions. Specifically, what Tudor did is to utilize the robust and infamous Rolex cases and bracelets, coupled with imported movements to craft their pieces. This is particularly evident in the Tudor Oyster collection which was released during the same decade, where the Rolex-exclusive Oyster cases were added to some of the most gorgeous and trustworthy Tudor watches. Proving its extreme dedication, the company eventually unveiled other iconic lines such as the Tudor Prince, Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, the Tudor Oysterdate, and the Tudor Advisor. These pieces bear the new Montres Tudor logo, where the company signature and rose image were the only ones put together, without the presence of the iconic shield. Realizing that they offer so much more than being closely related to Rolex, the label started to produce cases, crowns, and bracelets on their own, which they added on the models they released during the 1980s to 2000s. However, like any other company, Tudor also faced some major hurdles during their entire 95-year run. The majority of it is related to financial and sales, which is why they decided to halt the import and selling of their products to major world markets, such as the United States during the late 1990s to early 2000s. Tudor Black Bay: How It All Began Completely embodying the popular quote “the sun will rise and we will try again,” Tudor came back stronger and better in 2009 with a major relaunch. Instead of continuing its legacy with its iconic lines, the brand decided to release new collections, which are truly breathtaking. Some of the series unveiled by the brand after its hiatus are the Tudor Grantour, Tudor Glamour, and Heritage Chrono collections. All of them bear incomparable beauty and identity, coupled with precise performance and dependability that you would simply not resist. However, what stands out the most among the company’s modern lines is the Tudor Black Bay collection, which houses the sleekest and chicest diving watches you will ever find in the market today. Unveiled in 2012 following the release of the Tudor Heritage Advisor and the Clair de Rose series, the whole Black Bay line takes inspiration from the acclaimed Submariner models the company is known for during the early 1950s and 1970s. Specifically, the watches from the line are reminiscent of the Tudor Submariner with reference numbers 7922 and 7924 as well as the dive watches made for the members of the French Naval Army in 1969. Design-wise, the first few Black Bay pieces sport humongous and oversized winding crowns, sturdy cases without crown guards, as well as an hour hand that is bigger than the rest of the luminous pointers found within the dial. While the indices are all numberless, the signature of the watch takes the cake as it is printed in a gilt manner, along with the railroad edges you can utilize for an easier timekeeping process. What’s great about the pieces is that the information found at the bottom part of the dial, just above the 6 o’clock mark, is also useful especially if you are the type of person who is very meticulous and particular with the smallest details. These texts will tell you the water-resistance level and the kind of movement the watches boast, whether it is self-winding or manual. Throughout its nine-year run, the Black Bay collection has relatively expanded its capacities for greater variety and for consumers, especially watch enthusiasts, to appreciate, recognize and rave about it more. From only having dive watches as its main offering, the line is now home to sporty and spirited chronographs and innovative and functional dual time timekeepers, which both carry supreme longevity and capabilities. What’s more is that a lot of them now come with masterful and powerful in-house movements, swaying away from the imported ETA calibers that Tudor utilized not only in the preceding Black Bay models but also in its other remarkable collections. While some may think that it is too plain and boring for the fast-paced era we are now living in, the brand still incorporated time-only pieces that embody simplicity and grace all at once. These watches give a direct ode to the typical vintage pieces lurking around legit vintage stores and secondhand online trusted e-commerce websites. One of them is the Tudor Black Bay 41, which we will discuss and explore further in this article. Aside from bearing a handsome yet alluring appearance, this timepiece has unexplored charms that deserve more praise and appreciation from the vast watch community. Tudor Black Bay 41: Your Next Go-To Time-Only Wristwatch As emphasized above, the Tudor Black Bay 41, also referred to as the Tudor Heritage Black Bay 41, the Black Bay 41, and the Tudor Black Bay Ref. 79540, is one of the fantastic and grand upgrades to the classic Black Bay models released by the brand in 2012 in an attempt to re-introduce the wonders of Tudor watches to the watch industry. First released to the market in 2017, it is known for being one of the latest additions, not just to the 32/36/41 collection but the entire Black Bay series. Not to mention, it extremely attests to the incomparable mastery, passion, and rigor the company exhibits when it comes to creating desirable, trailblazing, and robust timepieces you could proudly bring to any of your endeavors. Aside from being one of the highly sought-after merchandise from the luxury company at this present day, the watch also blends modernity and refinement effortlessly as evident in its lustrous and subtle image and head-turning overall appeal. Just by looking at this one, you will realize how simplicity is not a bad thing at all. It rather gives the piece the opportunity to shine and stand out even more even without grand ornamentations as well as jaw-dropping additional attributes. This becomes the reason why it deserves a place in any watch lover’s collection since it provides a good balance not just to any outfit but also in terms of preferences. Known as the notable successor of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay 36, which was revealed to the general public in 2016, the Black Bay 41 will fit the taste of urbane men due to its prepossessing aura and enthralling design. The large case alone takes the cake, given how it perfectly fits most wrist types without feeling heaviness at all. While it does not come with any aesthetic and visually appealing complications such as an annual calendar, a dual time function, a moon phase indicator, or a date or day display, the watch is made out of premium materials and bears strong components both in terms of the exterior blueprint and the interior mechanisms that all guarantee its usability and long life span. This also makes it a good investment for any collector out there who is looking for something that is incredibly breathtaking yet practical. Above all these, what’s great about this one is that it deviates from the typical concept of sports watches we see around today. Designed to sway away from the usual, the Black Bay 41 does not come with any rotating and unidirectional bezel at all, making it more confusing to a lot of enthusiasts whether the timepiece falls under the category of a tool watch or a dress watch. However, when inspected closely, you will realize that its mission is to offer a different vibe and charm to any wearer, making it more enticing and tempting to own. Demonstrating flexibility and versatility, the watch allows you to experience what it is like to have a piece you could bring to any gathering. Whether you are going for a casual meeting with your acquaintances or an extremely formal suit-and-tie event, the Black Bay 41 is all you need in order to spice up and complete your whole look. This is why a lot of experts usually call it an elegant sports watch. Despite the blurry line, the watch still boasts a high level of water resistance compared to usual dress timepieces and a great caliber, which makes the watch more impressive. Although often compared to the legendary Rolex Explorer due to its classic appearance, the Tudor Black Bay 41 will give you the best value for your hard-earned money, given how it embodies sophistication and robustness in all of its aspects. From its straightforward dial and its extremely polished case to the flawless bracelet design, this model could instantly pass as your next go-to everyday watch. Up Close With The Tudor Black Bay 41 With the increasing interest for Tudor models at this present day, it is no surprise that the Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. 79540-0006 is one of the most coveted watches among the brand’s extensive lineup of watches. Despite being a time-only model, its minimalist and lavish feel is what brings the model to the top of everyone’s must-have list. If you have been pondering for quite some time now whether it is the time for you to finally purchase this lovely timepiece, you can refer to the specifications and other important details below, which will give you an idea of what Tudor Black Bay is all about and why it attains so many good reviews from dedicated watch geeks and aficionados. Case material: Stainless steel Case dimension: 41mm Movement: Mechanical, Automatic Power reserve: Approximately 38 hours Water resistance: 150m or 500ft Case Among the first things you will notice in a watch is the case. In fact, it becomes one of the major factors whether a potential wearer would give in and purchase a certain timepiece or not. With that being said, it is important that a watch’s case does not only boast a striking look but also powerful durability. The exterior of the Tudor Black Bay 41 in the M79540-0006 variation is the perfect epitome of a straightforward yet tough and beautiful case you will never see in other models. Just like what its name suggests, this model sports a case size of 41mm, which makes it an appropriate watch for men, especially those who have bigger and wider wrists. At first glance, you may think that this one is too heavy to wear due to its unusual large footprint.  However, when tried on, the watch is proportional and well-balanced after all because of how the case was delicately formed into a perfectly round shape. This becomes the reason why the watch is very comfortable to wear all day. Exhibiting a rugged yet handsome feel, the case of this model is extremely polished to the point that you can even see bits of your reflection when you place it in front of your face. Due to its satin finish, the case of the Black Bay 41 also looks smoother and neater, which gives off a very pristine and lavish feel. The absence of any rotating bezel makes it thinner and sleeker, which is perfect for professional men who like giving off impactful and remarkable first impressions to people they encounter for the very first time. What’s more is that the bezel is somehow crafted in a flat manner, which perfectly fits the figure of the symmetrical shape of the lugs. This is why women are also drawn to this sports watch, given how the watch just sits perfectly on the wrist without any unnecessary bulkiness. This characteristic somehow fits the purpose of this Black Bay model, which is to provide consumers a sports watch that is not limited to athletic pursuits only but all major life happenings in general. Just like the other members of the Black Bay collection, the case, as well as the lugs of this model, are made out of stainless steel. Despite not being so lightweight like the titanium material, stainless steel ensures that both the surface and inner parts of the Black Bay 41 are protected from any kind of moisture and corrosion, which could, later on, turn into rust. Aside from that, this material boasts a great level of strength, which is good if you are the type of person whose life revolves around commuting, wherein accidental bumps and impacts are nearly inevitable. Not to mention, stainless steel is not too burdensome on the skin, which means that you do not have to worry about getting a significant allergic reaction if you choose to go for the timepiece in question. With these alone, you can already see how the watch thrives significantly among its other competitors. It is no wonder why a lot of people get drawn to its amazing qualities and features. Crown and Water Resistance Sticking with the overall theme of all watches under the Black Bay collection, the crown of the Black Bay 41 is oversized yet very accessible to any wearer. Besides the fact that it is placed in a screw-down manner, the smooth winding crown also comes with the signature emblem of Tudor, which is lovely and enthralling at the same time. Following the shape of a rose, the logo looks exactly like the brand’s iconic symbol that first appeared on the dials Tudor watches released in the 1930s. To ensure a nice and exact fit, the watch’s crown also sports a black winding crown tube made out of anodized aluminum. Aside from the fact that it protects the watch from being damaged, it also ensures a smooth movement if in any case you want to adjust the time. Moreover, it also provides a different touch to the overall aesthetic of the model, giving wearers more reasons to admire and praise the irresistible qualities of the timepiece. Another notable characteristic of this watch is that it can withstand water pressures of up to 150 meters. This may not be considered a major feature since a lot of modern watches as well as other models from the collection like the Black Bay Chrono, the Black Bay 58, and the Black Bay GMT sport waterproofness ratings of 200 meters. However, it is still considered a good level to have, especially if you like to maintain an active and fast-paced lifestyle. While you cannot bring the watch to any major and extreme diving activities, it is still suitable for your casual trips to the pool and the beach. What’s more is that you can also use it if you want to go snorkeling while still being cautious with the water depths you are planning to plunge into. Crystal Luxury brands often rely on sapphire crystal as the main barrier for their products for many reasons. One advantage of using it is that it endorses superior rigidity to other options such as acrylic glass and mineral glass. For one, it is extremely hard for this component to attain major scratches no matter how powerful and hard the impact it experiences. Since it is made out of aluminum oxide that was directly produced by experts working in laboratories, the sapphire crystal also comes with a clear and clean look, which allows you to view the time without experiencing any difficulties at all. This makes watches that come with this kind of material suitable for those who value function and style equally. However, it is important to note that once sapphire crystal becomes entirely shattered or damaged, it will be impossible for any authorized repair personnel to give quick remedies to your timepiece. Your only option would be to replace it entirely with a new crystal. Nevertheless, you will still get the most out of your Black Bay 41 watch especially if you take good care of it frequently. Dial When it comes to the dial, the Black Bay 41 with reference number M79540-0006 exhibits an entirely vintage feel, which can make you feel like you are in the 60s era. Being a time-only watch, this one comes with only the essential functions that you will need on a daily basis. Depending on your perspective, this may be a hit-or-miss since it embodies simplicity to its fullest. Despite this, the watch will surely provide you the courage and confidence that you will need in order to face daily challenges head-on. Bringing the overall smart and versatile look of the watch together, the dial of the Black Bay 41 Ref. M79540-0006 is in a cool black color, while the hour and minute hands in snowflake form and sword-style sport a white-colored hue. First utilized in Tudor military watches, the snowflake hands give the watch a quirky and fun vibe albeit its robust look. The numberless hour-markers also bear the same tone, with outlines that are defined for easier distinction. Exhibiting variety, the indices of this watch are specifically printed in round, baton, and triangle shapes. The baton ones correspond to the 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock placements, while the rest of the watch are in round form, with the exception of the 12 o’clock mark which takes the inverted triangle symbol. Giving the watch more definition, the railroad-like pattern on the outer portion of the dial is a very astonishing sight to see. The addition of plain texts with no unusual font style also makes the model less cluttered. Movement In terms of potency, the Tudor Black Bay 41 uses an automatic movement called the Caliber T600. This mechanism is a modified version of the Caliber 2824, with a few minor tweaks and modifications on the side. Aside from boasting a power reserve of around 38 hours, the movement is thoroughly protected by a hard case back, which is embellished with the signature Tudor symbol with the texts “Geneve” and “Suisse.” Bracelet Matching the case, the model in question comes with a stainless steel case with small gaps that serve as its unique element. To add, a clicking folding clasp is what ensures security on the wearer’s wrist. It may seem too boring on the outside but once released, the clasp’s body is adorned with the Tudor signature, which is the same emblem you can find on the caseback, as well as the face of the watch. For those of you who are not keen on bracelet watches, there is a leather strap option (Tudor Black Bay Ref. M7950-0007) that is extremely smooth and soft to run your palms on. Endorsing a great amount of comfort, a fabric strap is also available for purchase (Tudor Black Bay Ref. M7950-0010). This will not only amp up your clothing pieces but also accompany you significantly during your outdoor activities such as hiking and rock climbing. It is an extremely breathable material, which will make you feel as if you are not wearing a watch at all. Other Versions of the Tudor Black Bay 41 The watch we dissected above is just one of the many editions of the iconic and well-crafted Tudor Black Bay 41. As mentioned earlier, the collection is so vast that you might become too overwhelmed when asked to choose what model specifically resonates with your personality and lifestyle. While the one we reviewed above sport a black, white, and silver color scheme, there are other options that deserve their own moments of appreciation. Below are the other Tudor Black Bay 41 variations you can check out if you are not big on the typical monochrome theme. 1. Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. M79540-0010 Looking for something that is extraordinary but not too daring and loud? The Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. M79540-0010 should definitely go on your radar. Many of you will definitely agree that this timepiece is an actual stunner even on photos alone. What more if you actually witness its beauty in person, right? Just like the Tudor Black Bay 41 in M79540-0006 variation, the watch comes in a 41mm case made out of stainless steel. Its bezel is also gleaming which contrasts well with the black hue of the fabric strap. If you are wondering what is the difference between this watch to the classic Tudor Black Bay 41 model, well it is very obvious. You can already find it just by looking at its dial. Aside from sporting a dark blue tone, the indices are also in matte white, with some vibrant and matte coatings all over their body. They are also printed in circle, triangle, and baton patterns, which lessens the confusion of many when reading the time. In terms of the movement, the Black Bay 41 Ref. M79540-0010 also runs on the superb Caliber T600 automatic movement, which gives any wearer ultimate convenience. This model is perfect for those who want to be a bit adventurous in terms of their choice but do not want to go overboard. 2. Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. M79540-0011 Next up, we have a piece that bears a similar vibe to the Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. M79540-0010. The only difference is that the Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. M79540-0011 is more industrial-looking, which is perfect if your style mainly revolves around manly, fierce, and classic ones. Considered the latest addition to the jaw-dropping Black Bay 41 lineup, this timepiece bears a silver-colored dial, which is entirely a sight to behold. This is due to its gorgeous and enthralling sunburst finish, which gives a gleaming effect together with the watch’s stainless steel bracelet. The grey-colored—almost ceramic—outlines of the indices and hands give the watch more character and poise. Not to mention, the minimalist and black-colored edges and texts give way to greater legibility and easier time-tracking. Just like the first-ever model, this one comes with a water resistance level of up to 150 meters. Since its exterior is also made out of sapphire crystal, you can expect that this watch will also handle impacts very well, no matter how big or small they are. Proving its amazing performance, the Tudor Black Bay in M79540-0010 also boasts a power reserve of around 38 hours, just like its predecessors. This prominent timepiece is an excellent and exceptional choice for those who want something that has a touch of finesse yet very straightforward and uncomplicated to use. Final Notes If there is a collection that sums up how Tudor continuously strives to achieve success and excellence, it is the Tudor Black Bay. It is so well-made and iconic to the point that when one mentions the brand, the Black Bay series is the one that automatically comes to mind. While many of you think that the line has already reached its peak and glory primarily because of the continuous success it experiences, the Black Bay 41 watch completely scratches that idea. Aside from bearing a good price point together with an opulent appeal, the way the model was created and designed is truly exceptional. Not to mention, the accuracy it brings to the table is top-notch despite adapting an imported movement. It is considered a conversational piece not because it comes with grand complications. Its simple time-telling function also becomes its focal selling point. The Tudor Black Bay 41 is solid proof that you do not need a fancy watch to stand out among the crowd. Apart from this, it attests to how Tudor never stops making itself known to the public as a promising luxury watch brand rather than Rolex’s sister company. With the amount of effort the label has put into producing the versatile, compelling, and fully functional Black Bay 41 model, it is never surprising to see why it is one of the current and most recommended time-only pieces today. While there isn’t any recent news regarding the developments of the whole Black Bay collection, particularly the Black Bay 32/36/41 line, we can only hope that Tudor will leave more room for their improvement. Perhaps, a few bolder color and strap choices, as well as size variations, are some of the things we can expect in the upcoming releases. Want to know more and delve deeper into Tudor’s releases and history, particularly its other collections and offerings? Make sure to read our articles about the best Tudor watches you can find in the vast market today, why the Tudor Black Bay GMT stands out, as well as how Tudor differs from its sister brand Rolex. Photos courtesy of Tudor unless stated otherwise Featured image from Tudor’s official website        

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